Re: fuel pump
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Forum Ambassador
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It would be nice to know what the failure mode was on those pumps, a properly rebuilt mechanical fuel pump should be good for at least 75,000 miles and MANY years, often outlasting electric fuel pumps.
Did you do a post-mortem on them to find why they failed?
Posted on: 2015/5/22 8:21
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Re: fuel pump
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Home away from home
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I'll be pulling the pump today and will post what I find.
Posted on: 2015/5/22 9:21
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Re: fuel pump
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Forum Ambassador
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O_D brings up a good point about failure. There are multitudes of mechanical pumps in use and longevity has not been an issue -- unless the pumps you have been installing have been sitting a long time and have old rubber diaphragms that had dried or was not alcohol resistant. Modern gas with ethanol and additives will typically finish those off in a short time. There are several rebuild kits and places available that use alcohol resistant rubber. I would not buy a NOS kit or any kit that does not state it uses fresh or modern type rubber parts.
If you do want to go completely electric there are some PAC regions that sell electric pumps. If you want to support them and have access to PACs News Bulletin, there are some ads listing where they are available. If you want to go to a local parts store or order thru Amazon, then Airtex is an established brand of pump with universal pump offings that many use in their cars. The original Packard pump specs had 3 1/2 to 5 1/2 psi output. If you are going to totally replace your mechanical pump then the Airtex E8004 would be my choice. The pressure is correct as is the fuel line size and a rollervane pump would be relatively quiet. If you are going to keep the mechanical pump and, as most do add the electric in the line somewhere near the tank to use only for priming or as a backup then the E8004 pump would not be a good choice. The rollervane (and also rotary vane) pump construction will typically not let a mechanical pump pull fuel thru. If keeping the mechanical in the line then you will have to choose one of the solenoid types or else get really elaborate with the plumbing with check valves etc to provide a way around the electric. Here are Airtex offerings with the right psi range and line size. Neither solenoid type is perfect so it depends on which is most easily available and how you want to approach the install. The 5-9 psi pump output pressure is a bit high so it may need an additional pressure regulator after the pump to avoid potential flooding problems. That would depend on how restrictive to flow pushing fuel thru the mechanical pump and filter might be. The 2.5 to 4.5 psi pump is a bit low and with filters and restrictions before the carb, its output pressure may not be sufficient to give adequate flow at higher engine speeds. Some are using it though and seem to have no issues. Of the two I would choose the E8012S, install near the tank and make contingency plans for installation of a regulator nearby if it proved to be needed. On any electric pump install it would probably be a good idea to also add a large capacity easily changeable filter between the tank and pump. Any rust or debris in the tank could be eliminated before it hit the pump or clog the tiny filter that might come with the pump.
Posted on: 2015/5/22 9:32
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Howard
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Re: fuel pump
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Home away from home
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HH56,
One of my cars is a 1953 Packard with the 12v conversion and left with the Pos ground. Another owner did it. I'm wanting to put the 12V pump on my car and my ? is: Are the pumps polarity sensitive? Can I use the same pump you recommend E8012S airtex on my system of 12V POS ground?
Posted on: 2015/5/24 13:33
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Steve
Old cars are my passion 1951 Packard 200 1953 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan 1955 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer Tri-tone 1966 Rambler Classic 770 Convertible |
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Re: fuel pump
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Forum Ambassador
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The pumps are generally polarity sensitive but Airtex pumps have two wires exiting the pump and the mounting clamp or case is not connected to either wire. In our application instead of connecting the negative wire to ground as they call for in their instructions it would be the positive wire to ground and negative wire to the power source.
Attach file: (21.61 KB)
Posted on: 2015/5/24 14:17
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Howard
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Re: fuel pump
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Home away from home
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Thank you Howard.
Regards, Steve
Posted on: 2015/5/24 14:34
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Steve
Old cars are my passion 1951 Packard 200 1953 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan 1955 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer Tri-tone 1966 Rambler Classic 770 Convertible |
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Re: fuel pump
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Home away from home
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This is a follow-up report. To my 1951 Packard 200, 6V POS ground, I installed the AirTex electric fuel pump #E8011 purchased 2 from Amazon at $28.00 Each with free shipping (they arrived the next day.) Easy install, and as Howard stated, I did ground the pos red wire from the pump to the frame and powered the black wire. Wired in a switch with fuse link to the ign switch. and it works. I drove the car at freeway speeds for 5 miles with the electric pump off, the mechanical pump on the engine did not have a problem supplying gas at the freeway speed 65-70 mph. I returned the 5 miles to the shop with the electric pump engaged and let it idle for 20 mins, then turned the car off and left the key on with the pump still on with out flooding the carb and engine with too much fuel pump pressure. The pump can be heard running when you sit in the car and the car is not running but you don't hear anything in an idling car. I do plan to install the same set up on my 55 dodge and 53 Packard.....3 of my 4 cars do get heat stroke (vapor lock) especially after a freeway drive and trying to return to regular street driving or 85 to 90 degree ambient in stop and go traffic.
Thank you again Howard.
Posted on: 2015/5/26 13:46
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Steve
Old cars are my passion 1951 Packard 200 1953 Packard Clipper Custom Touring Sedan 1955 Dodge Custom Royal Lancer Tri-tone 1966 Rambler Classic 770 Convertible |
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