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Re: Buffing out lacquer
#11
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RogerDetroit
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Quote:

Chad G wrote:
Here is a fantastic write up regarding Single Stage Paint restoration and care; written by Mike Phillips.

autogeekonline.net/forum/ask-expert-feat ... sh-antique-single-stage-paints.html



Hello Chad:

That is one hellava write-up. Damn near a doctoral thesis. Well worth the read.

Thanks for sharing that.

Posted on: 2015/6/15 18:11
-

1941 Model 160 Convertible Sedan
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Re: Buffing out lacquer
#12
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Fish'n Jim
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Swirl marks are not necessary in any surface. They are scratches or smeared surface material that wasn't cleaned off.
A lot of people back then didn't know how to properly care for their finishes, (mythology) so it can be an "authenticity" item for a survivor but not necessary in repaint, restoration, or regular care.
Properly done, the paint surface is stepwise cleaned and leveled, then sealed with a wax or polymer and buffed to gloss to prevent UV, water, and oxidation damage that occurs through natural outdoor aging. A clean surface properly treated gives that mile deep wet shine. Must remove all water spots!
Some of the newer polishes/glazes haze and have to be wiped or reapplied frequently to maintain luster.
{I've been detailing for 50 years and sure others here have as much or more. It's got a lot easier with the new finishes, compounds, and waxes. I dare you to hand rub a "new" or "faded" lacquer or enamel job and hand rub it to gloss with "original" hard simoniz, ex machine. Some people didn't want machine use because they thought swirls marks were inevitable with them. I did my share at $20 a pop back in the day when $20 was good pocket money. I wouldn't trade my new orbital buffer w/ sponge pads and some of the Meguiar's or Mothers cleaners and polishes out there.} The Geek guys are good. It's better to keep a light finish maintenance effort than let it go and have to take it back from "scratch".

Posted on: 2015/6/19 14:16
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