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cool thanks guys!

What about the FUEL PUMP??? I do not claim to be well versed with the TBI nor the EFI. BUT my understandding is that TBI = HIGH PRESSURE pump = HIGH HEAT condition of pump AND fuel = pump must be INSIDE of gas tank for cooling by the sloshing gas.

So does that mean that the TBI conversion kit u r using comes with a pump that will fit the Packard tank without cutting the tank to accomodate the pump????

Hank, I converted my 55 Clipper to negative ground. It is Auto Lite equipped, but that should not make any difference to your Delco equipped Custom. I damaged to original voltage regulator and bought a universal replacement from NAPA. Connected everything, changed the leads on the coil, and polarized the generator. Nothing to it. Of course I did not have to worry about TL and the original radio was inop.

(o{]o)

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you can run a return or returnless system with the FAST EZ-EFI or any tbi conversion really. it is recommended in my region to run a return system, Texas heat.

you can also run an external inline electric pump or in tank electric pump. there are combinations of the above that will yield results in the middle.

such as....an inline electric fuel pump with a return line to the gas tank after the TBI with a pressure regulator. this keeps the fuel circulating and cool and maintains pump pressure. the disadvantage to that is the pump is noisier and runs hotter, but you can also change it on the side of the road without dropping the tank if/when it goes bad. this is the choice I'm going with as the new repo tanks have that drain bung on the bottom which is perfect for the return line and I don't want to cut a hole in the tank to put an in tank pump inside.

the perfect, no vapor lock, no cavitation, no pump issues solution is to run an in tank pump with a return line and pressure regulator...this is how OEMs do it now.

you can, for the cheap version, run a return-less with external pump, but you will set yourself up for cavitation and vapor lock and premature pump failure. one way to combat this on this type of system is to run PWM pump....(pulse width modulated) the pump pulses and this allows the system to measure pressure and only tell the pump to hit when it needs supply instead of constantly pushing against a closed loop system. the problem with this is you cant use metal lines as they wont pulse as well as rubber lines. also the tbi ecu has to beable to control the fuel pump, instead of the pump being on a separate relay. msd atomic system does this. ez efi does not.

some in tank pumps are indeed small enough that they might possibly fit through the hole of the sending unit in the Packard tank, but then how do you get your hand in there to plumb it up???!! the solution would be to drill a hole in the sending unit and weld in a gas line....like some sending units already have.....my dart does. if there is enough room between the trunk deck and the tank that is...maybe a 90 degree bend to a rubber hose and then on to the factory line and plug the hole in the tank where the factory line goes.

the only reason for going with EZ EFI over the MSD Atomic is that they have a dual quad setup and MSD doesn't. BUT, the MSD Atomic can control the fuel pump with no need for relays and it has a setup for running two electric fans, it can also accommodate idle bump for A/C installs, also can control timing when used in conjunction with the MSD 6a CD ignition and dizzy. the MSD setup has many more options and less plugs and wiring. I'm going with the MSD unit on my Dodge Dart 340, but the EZ EFI will have to be the unit for the Packard so I can run dual quads.

the EZ EFI kit also has the linkage to connect the two together...I just have to run my single carb linkage to one of the TBI with a longer or shorter rod and pop it on the stud. bam done.

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Yeah this sounds easier then I thought, and Howard seems to think the TL unit will still work as long as it is the old mechanical unit, and it is.

man....dual EFI on a 374 Packard V8 with cam work and high end lunati double valve springs with 3 angle valve job, balanced rods/pistons/crank.... JIMP!

I'm also going to be getting this for the vent/heater.

I know the Packard club sell repos of the originals, but this is just as functional, black, and cheaper. Also longer so if I need more in the future I'll have it.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/261584701446?var=560457675755

here are some pics of the vent tubing. not a bad deal if you ask me. 19 bucks and shipped free from the UK. its a dull black too, so that works nicely.

its a tight fit even though I bought 5" ducting. probably could go with 6", but that would be a bit too big. 5.5" better.

I got the 5" to fit over the end, but it was very tight.

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got to work on putting the parts on the drivers side of the firewall and fender. I have to go back and look at old pics so I know where the put the wiring harness loops on the battery tray, etc.

its going to be a challenge because I didn't take very good pics at the first when taking the car apart. that and my camera sucked and took sucky pictures.

I also tried to rebuild the heater blower motor. I got really close until the brushes weren't lining up right on the armature. they were sticking up too high, so I figured the shaft must have gotten pressed down when I was taking the fan off. so I tapped it on my vise to move it and align the brushes......that didn't work out well for me and of course the last little hit pushed the armature up all the way and broke the little backlight pieces that hold the brushes and shoved the bushing out and cracked the casing. enlarge the last pic to see the damage.

so does anyone have one laying around? I don't need the heater housing, just the motor and fan portion.

I can rebuild it, I guess maybe 2nd time will work.....just like my water pump that took me 3 times....blugh!

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I'm sure Mike Dulinsky would have a 12v blower motor with the cage on it.
Looking good! Nice to see you are still getting some time on the Packard.

thanks, I have some feelers out there right now. waiting to here back from a friend locally about the motor, if I can give money to a friend and save on shipping then that is optimal.

I started looking over the power antenna. the wire inside was whole except at the very top. of course taking it out and looking at it....it crumbled in my hand. I looked over some trimmer line I had laying there, it is.095 line. it fits okay, but I may look into something thicker because it has to be sturdy enough to not bend when it is pushing up the antenna.

I soaked the antenna in my magic sauce and 24 hours later and very light scrubbing this is how it turned out. I think the stuff that was on it the antenna was actually the undercoating or whatever spray from the car when it was new. i'll probably either paint it or put some herculiner on it to replicate the look even though nobody will ever see it.

it was a total PITA getting that chrome nut off. I had to clamp it in the vice and use heat and Pb blaster over and over again. luckily I didn't melt the rubber insert too bad and it is reusable. the threads on the end of the tube started to split from the rust, so I'm lucky it came off at all. i'll probably have to cut that off and weld on a piece of the same size pipe and then thread it again. if not i'll need a new one just like the heater motor.

I have no idea where that ballbearing goes either (pic 89)....I only guessed in that one picture.....its the only place I can see that it would fit. there is also a small flat disc that goes in before the ball bearing. (pic 94)

there were 3 small tubes of felt on the top too that I guess had oil at one point to lube things up. looks like it was supposed to be lifetime lube cause there is no external way to relube.

also you can see on the end of the antenna where the wire was crimped on and broke. so I'll have to figure out how to crimp on a new piece.

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