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Howard...I hope when I get to your age (38 right?) that I have as much knowledge as you and am as willing to share it as well! thanks

see picture earlier in the thread and below for what the vol-ta-drop looks like. just a ceramic resistor. your runtz link says these ceramic blocks are good for dc motors...as in heater blower motor. so that may be all that is hooked up to it. I could use it for the motor and the runtz for the gauges....which basically consists of the fuel gauge only as you are right the other two are mechanical. the ammeter wont be used as it will just peg each time.

I went out and just studied the original harness that they hacked into. it looks like it is a reproduction and in very good shape. not frayed and its all cloth covered. its all the other crap that is done like a 2 year old did it.

the voltage regulator on the firewall is just there for looks. the red, green, and brown wires that go to it are just laying near the alternator and not hook up. I assume they would normally go to the generator if there was one. the alternator obviously has an internal regulator that it is using. looks to be a 3 wire GM delco remy alternator. the black wire on the firewall VR is being used for a ground, which is confusing because it looks like they jumpered off of it for other items and they are fused, but don't you usually fuse the power side of things and not the ground. This black wire is hooked up to the "B" on the firewall VR. assume that means Battery. I'm going to have take a volt meter and test light to all of those wires and see if i'm right.

so, what i'm thinking I may do is leave the original repo harness since the wiring is in good shape and pretty thick gauge. seems to be much thicker then the universal aftermarket harnesses. then i'll redo all of the wiring with new wire and shrink tubing. I really have to think this option over as I don't know how old the repo 6v wiring harness is even though it looks decent. its def not from 37.

the only other option will be that kwik wire 14 circuit universal unit and buy some wire loom covering that mimics original style. might as well take the VR off the firewall with this option.

funny that runtz is from speedway...I was looking at their wiring harnesses today. they are way cheap, but I like the kwik wire version better.

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also another reason I like the new universal harness route....fuses and more protection.

here is a nice article about the runtz. you had me curious about them Howard.

fifthaveinternetgarage.blogspot.com/2015/11/the-runtz-story_10.html

If the car already has an updated 6V harness, what is preventing you from going back to 6V? More authentic, and if the car is in good condition mechanically 6V will start it readily.

On my car the carb was leaking down over time, and even with no electric pump it would prime and start readily. Heavy gage battery cables and it turns very well. I understand the desire for protection, but with so few circuits, it seems less important than on a car with with a million accessories. Just my .

thanks for the input. going back to 6v is an option, just the most expensive option. technically this is to be my touring Packard while I finish the 55. so I really just want to get it safely drivable without worrying about it burning to the ground.

Its running on a 3 wire alternator which is putting out 14.5 while running. also I have no original generator, which if I got one I would assume would need a total rebuild. I also don't have any of the brackets and I believe the pulleys have been changed to accept a V belt for the alternator.

I can purchase a 6v alternator, but I already have a good 12v in there.

I also want the headlights to be brighter. since I had Lasik eye surgery, I don't see well at night anymore. not that i'll be driving it at night that often to be honest. I'd also have to change the headlights as they are 12v halogens.

I have no idea if the voltage regulator on the firewall is good or not either. its supposed to be a VRB 4001A and it says VRR 4001A. no idea if someone fudged the tag or if it is actually a different one.

the 6v wiring harness is in good shape, just been hacked on in several places.

the vol-ta-drop....it doesn't work. I measured the 6v side and it was reading 12v. the other 6v stud read 0 volts. the only two things hooked to it were the gas gauge and the heater blower motor. I unhooked them both. its a wonder that they both even turned on. the fuel gauge could be toast even though it reads 1/4 tank and the heater motor makes horrible noise when coming to stop so i'm sure its burnt up or on its way out from the 12v.

the over head lights are wired backwards with the ground going to the bulb and the positive going to the housing.

there is a 1.5-4psi electric fuel pump mounted under the car that is getting 12v that I measured, but doesn't turn on. no surprise as it is not on a relay or switch....it just hooks to the 12v side of the vol-ta-drop.

got under the car. needs new shock bushings and probably new rear shock rebuilds as I could push them up by hand.

the wood could use some new pieces in certain places, nothing too bad.

the stabilizer that goes on the transmission is missing...probably why it chatters in 2nd. read that in a service counselor. the trans mounts are rotting, no idea on the motor.

the fans on the front of the radiator don't seem to be on a relay either....just an on/off switch.

and I don't know if this is correct, but the car will turn over without the key in the dash. I didn't try starting it that way, but it does kick over. i'm guessing that the key actually puts power to the accessories and the coil. but it just seems dangerous that I could kick the car over without the key in it. scared me half to death. sooooo i'm right am I not...the key should be in and turn on before the car would ever kick over the starter?

please don't anyone take this as complaining, i'm just listing the things I've found that need help so far. i'm still very happy I have the car and i'm enjoying working on it. i'm enjoying this blog and the input from everyone. I appreciate all of the help.

Regarding the engine turning over with the key removed, that is normal. The starter button completes the circuit from the battery to the starter solenoid when pressed, cranking the engine. But the engine won't start until the ignition key is in the "on" position, completing the primary ignition system and energizing the ignition coil. So the engine will crank but won't start unless the ignition lock is turned to the "on" position.

Man thanks so much. I have a lot to learn still!

Other cars did the cranking without a key on too. Growing up a neighbor had an old Chevy where the starter was a big button to the side of the accelerator. The idea was one foot on the accelerator and then swing the toes over to hit the button at the same time to crank the engine.

I remember one episode where it was too tempting for a bunch of kids. Three or four of us got in the car to go for a "drive". We were all too small to reach the button and steer the car -- let alone see over the dash as to where were were going but ingenuity won the day. One kid got on the trans tunnel or floor to mash the switch and another steered the car -- straight into an obstacle. We all scattered but lets just say the neighbor was not amused. I hope young Hank has a more understanding father.

great story! thanks for sharing! I thought you were only 38? j/k

is there a way to wire it so it does not operate that way? have to have the key in for the starter button to work? just curious.

I am very understanding. way more patience then my wife. But my kiddo usually listens well when I tell him not to do something that could cause big issues.

I'm not super proud of my fix here, but this is what I had to do for now to fix the door striker. I took it apart, remember, to put new rubber under it. you can see on the one on the right that the rubber is getting pretty bad. Well the left one had just about zero rubber left and was jiggling all over.

when I went to bend the tabs back over they broke off. so jb weld....fixed for now. it's back on the car and holds the door well.

another interesting find when I was trying to figure out where this green wire went to that was covered in black electric tape for no reason. well the reason was because of this chunk of metal that was hanging out in the kick panel. they apparently cutout a hole so they could get to the screws holding the door on to remove the door. what a great job....guess they never heard of an impact screwdriver. anyways...I bent it back...oh you know so that it wont CUT THE WIRE and cause a short!! GAH! I guess they figured wrapping the wire in electric tape was a good solution for keeping it from chaffing and cutting the wire.

btw that wire goes to the electric fuel pump that doesn't turn on...

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The starter will turn over even with the key out. The best fix is to install a cutoff (sp?) switch, which also gives you peace of mind when it comes to your wiring.

yeah I got a battery cutoff switch on it and I have it off when I'm not working with it.