Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

h,

out at pac sw, got more info, and reg, I am thinking now to remove the bracket,

and use that gear on the motor, think I am going to put it on plywood, to get things placed, and run it,,before putting it on door,

going to take that Teflon one to see what it would cost to cast,

I saw some oil gears that might work

Not following what you are planning with the bracket unless you mean to remove one from a regulator and mount it on plywood just for ease in experimenting purposes. One thing I don't think we ought to do is change anything on the car. If an owner (or a next owner) wants to reinstall an original motor, want it to be nothing more than removing a modern Dorman motor with the 6 screws holding it and then adding a Delco motor back using the original 3 screws. Using an adapter to extend the motor drive the extra inch and a half with a new 6 tooth pinion on the end seemed like the best approach.

Will be curious to see what you can do with the modern gear. I don't see any way to modify it without issues. Seems to me keeping it same size will require a new hole and bushing in the regulator because of the larger diameter and cutting it down some seems like it will make it very weak.

that's what I have been thinking,, from your comments,

easy,

so I will see about casting, about how many if they ask?, 100?,

but going for one first, see what that cost is,

I was looking at swapping regulators, with the dorman,

I am going to set up a test board, with plywood, with a tension spring on regulator ,, this way you can watch what's going on,

Out of curiosity, was the oval opening for the window wiring harness at the door jamb and door front edge there only if power windows was ordered or was it left off when the option wasn't ordered as it was on earlier models?

I don't believe there were any holes if no power windows. They only list one type unfinished door and the metal grommet with the smooth sides is separately listed in parts so it was field replaceable. I am thinking probably all doors and jambs were made with the ovals stamped but in thin edge knockout form. They did that on firewalls with two or three locations available if a hole was needed for extra openings when adding an accessory. 47 cars had multiple knockout positions on the passenger side firewall when there were various heaters that could be installed. I imagine if a window was ordered the hole was probably opened when going down the line.

On my '51 to '54 Packards, there are blank areas where the holes should be and I've not noticed it being any kind of knockout but on the ones with power windows, it appears to have been punched using a die to roll over the edge so as to make a smooth opening that wouldn't cut the wires - or hoses in the case of the older cars with hydraulic windows. I have a set of nice 1956 Patrician door shells with the holes so I was trying to figure out whether they would be proper on a non-power window car so I guess they would have to be filled in that case.

Ok, the shop said they will rebuild the power window unit for $450 plus shipping.The shaft is fine, but it has to be rewound as the electrical part is burned up and the armature has to be turned.
Price seems a little steep. What do you guys think?

You could probably buy a parts cart with several working window motors for about a grand....

But seriously, which one do you need. Have many in the basment.

Need right front

That must be about the going rate. A year or so ago another poster inquired about an AC motor rebuild with a company on the east coast and was quoted in that ballpark. Almost makes the $150-200 vendors are asking for used window motors seem reasonable.

Am still looking into adapting a modern motor. The blue prints for the original pinion and shaft are on order from the foundation. Once we get the prints will see if there are CNC possibilities in making an adapter. In the meantime Riki has a couple of inquiries out re possibly casting the piece. If an adapter plus relays and mounting plate can come in at a reasonable cost, add the modern motor at another $50 or so and it still seems a possibility worth looking into. Used motors are not going to be around forever.