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fredkanter Quote:

I did NOT say that an S8 fuel system is inadequate today with plain (non ethanol-mix) gasoline.

The problem with ethanol in the gas is its lower temperature of vaporization compared to gasoline which can cause vapor lock with only a mechanical fuel pump. Dave is correct that I live in a more temperature and altitude challenging location in the Southern Nevada High Desert than anywhere in NJ, but that's how one finds the "boundaries of the envelope" in performance.

Then there's the problem with rubber deterioration by the ethanol. This problem applies anywhere with E10/E15, but can also be solved with modern materials.

Craig

Contentious as usual...eh Fred?

No, I am here both to learn and share info. I asked a question and stated the conditions, locations of where I have driven my various vehicles and the fact that I had no problems whatsoever. In addition the trip to the Centennial was in 90-95 degree weather across Ohio.

I have learned form the post that others have experienced a problem in other altitudes which may be a factor. Had I not posted my experiences and asked the question I would not have been educated on the subject.

As Sgt. Joe Friday often said, "Just the facts" which is what I stated and what I received.

fredkanter:

Peace, brother.

Bring one of your S8 cars to So. NV high desert in August sometime and we'll drive "over the hump" from Pahrump to Las Vegas in mid afternoon. I'll bring a tow strap in my 55 Pat with upgraded fuel system or better yet in my 56 Panther next year with its super-upgraded fuel system.

I'm sure you believe: if there's a problem let's figure out a solution. We have to keep these Packards on the road where the public can see them.

Craig

To Ross - (HafH)

Re your 7/2 suggestion to check pump output pressure by placing a tee after the filter and check at that point, I am assuming the line is still going to the carb as well. The pressure kit I have has instructions to hook the meter directly to the pump or filter and no line going to the carb relying on the carb bowl to run the car a a minute or two. Not having done it either way, won't checking at the tee give me an accurate reading or are there different brand kits for checking at a tee?

Not aware of any kits. Thought it would be good to have it hooked to the carb. Then you could go pull a hill and see if the pressure stayed up under higher flow conditions.

Being a new S8 owner and forum attendee, I am delighted with response from various members re fuel issues, an education I really need. Now I am really curious about upgraded fuel systems mentioned by Craig - can you briefly describe what was done to upgrade your fuel systems. I would suspect a variety of approaches can be taken, but where is a good place to start?

Cal

50Cal Quote:

Here's what I did on my Panther:

http://1956packardpanther.com/Panther/fuelSystem.html

This is OVERKILL for you and probably most guys, but the general idea is the direction you want to go:

1) High pressure electric fuel pump in the back (sumped tank is not required on a stock car).

2) Fuel pressure regulator at the front to reduce pressure from 15psi (in Panther's case) to 5psi (or less as the carb will handle). The Ford FE high performance mechanical fuel pump used on Panther is not necessary on a stock setup, the stock fuel pump in good condition would be fine.

3) A return line to circulate the returned fuel to keep incoming fuel cool.

4) The relocated fuel fill is obviously not required on a stock vehicle.

You will NEVER have a vapor lock or fuel delivery problem with the above. I know because this is the kind of system that is used on stock-bodied race cars, such as my NHRA SS/KA 1974 Pontiac Trans Am SD-455 national record holder drag car. In a stock vehicle you can reduce the overkill as your budget and desire dictates.

Craig

I am about to follow the advice from several members to get a pusher pump on my S8. However, not having done it previously and investigating with local sources, I get conflicting info as to whether I need a high pressure (15 psi) with reducer or can get by with a 3-6 psi pump at the back to support the system since that is the output of the mech pump and since it not a high performance issue. Suggestions or recommendations please!

If you run a 15psi pump you will most definitely need a good quality regulator to avoid pushing the float valves off their seat and flooding the carb. I believe Holley makes a decent regulator for around $50. There are some cheaper ones that look similar to the Holley but from several reports on various forums they do not function well at the low range we need.

If you are still running 6v, many of us have installed the Airtex E8011 in the line near the tank & I don't believe anyone is running a regulator with it. The pump is available from many places and can be wired to work with positive ground. Here is Amazon's listing.

The output pressure of the E8011 is 5-8 psi and by the time fuel is pushed thru the tubing, mechanical pump and filter, the pressure at the carb should be around the 4-5 psi the normal mechanical pump puts out. It is a solenoid or pulse type pump that the mechanical pump can pull thru when the electric pump is off. The equivalent pump for 12v is the E8012S.

The other 6v option from Airtex is an E8902 at 2.5-4.5 psi. That may be a tad low to push thru the mechanical pump and filter and still have sufficient pressure at the carb but would be ideal if you were going electric only.