Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Interesting on the core plug. I have never seen one -- not that it matters.

With the way core plugs have to be driven in to properly install them I wonder if it was an aftermarket item designed to replace a leaking plug that could be easily installed with the engine in place. I could see where some engine installations would have a very confined space and would make driving in a conventional type difficult. Something that could be installed with a wrench might be a good choice. If that was the intent, wonder if there is anything like it available today.

I owned a Chevron Station in the late 70's and had a supply of "freeze plug" that could be installed with a wrench when the plug hole was behind a starter or under an exhaust manifold. It was the same basic plug as the one described...use a plug where the rubber had a tight fit, use some sort of sealer/adhesive (I used 3M weather strip adhesive..yellow) and turn the expansion nut to lodge the plug in the hole....Don't recall any come backs.

Don't forget to get the new "updated" oil pump.

I already have the Jack Vines oil pump package on the shelf waiting to be installed....

As far as this core plug, it was in the right, rear position (basically near the #8 plug so it is a hard location to access.

Rubber expansion plugs pep boys have them. I use them. But one came out. Which what cause my 20 year rebuild. No more for me. I have stainless expansion plugs in this engine.

My block is at a machine shop awaiting its turn at being looked at etc., but I held on to my heads so I could get a little more personal with them.

I thought the forum would like to see a few pictures after my head disassembly.

The valves have the Packard (and Eaton) logo on them. No telling how old they are but they seem in decent shape for their age. The valve seats need to be cleaned up but each valve is proud of the seat so no extreme seat recession.

See the picture of the valve seals. These big, hard, plastic ones were on the exhaust valves. I'm assuming these are the 'positive valve seals' The intakes had some evidence of a seal there too. But not much left of them.

There is evidence of valve guide wear. I don't have a split ball gauge so used a dial gauge on what felt to be the exhaust valve with the most wobble. It's peak to peak difference was ~0.015" so I probably need to have the guides redone with whatever I do with valves.

My heads are very old, notice the casting date of one of them as January 1955. The valve spring retainers/seats don't seem to be hardened (easy to score with a file). Are the ones sold by Merritt for $5 each, hardened?? They don't say online.

Besides price, are there any differences between the valves, springs, retainers etc sold by Kanter, Merritt, Egge, etc?

My current plan is to find a local machine shop and have them:
1. really clean out all the passages
2. Redo the valve guides.
3. Probably replace the 16 springs
4. Probably replace the 16 valves?? (they seem like they can be cleaned up and still have margin on them, but they are not the SS type. etc etc.
5. Replace the 16 valve retainers with hardened ones
6. Forgo hardened valve seats, just have them cleaned up but not sure on this.
7. Clean inside of rocker assembly, grind rocker tips etc


Any advice?

thanks,
Bob

Attach file:

---

  (48.81 KB)


  (51.46 KB)


  (90.74 KB)


  (53.07 KB)


  (85.90 KB)


  (108.52 KB)

Put in hardened seats and do valve job. You have it out so do it.

Seals are not positive....umbrella style. Get positive

Yes on rocker grind and clean

Talk to Jack Vines about getting hardened seats.... and see my 55 blog for lunati springs and retainers.... but warning.... I had more aggressive cam grind done and it requires machine the valve seats to fit them.

See my blog for much help including I believe positive seal part numbers.

I have splash shields for valve springs I'd sell. Don't need them if you get positive seals though. Plus i would have to find them.

Unless you're going to do heavy driving like trailer towing, I'd skip the expense of hardened seats. "No knowing how old the valves are", my guess is that they're from 1955 era. That's not old, my '24 truck has 1924 valves in it. Valves do not deteriorate from age, with the amount of meat I see on them I'd say they've never been cut, should be good for another 60 years, then they'll possibly have to be cut again at age 180 years.

Measure valve spring tension and compare with orig specs, if OK then keep.

Hank,
I am familiar with your blog. Lots of great pictures and insight there. Thanks for being so thorough with it. The valve seals you showed would only work on a head like yours machined around the valve guide. I think I read that you did that to accommodate the springs you wanted to use, not just to be able to use these positive seals.?? I need to find some seals that would work with the ~0.80" guides O.D and the 3/8" valve stem. Anyone have a specific positive seal recommendation?


Fred,
Thank you for posting. I plan on driving around town (Houston) with occasional trips to nearby cities like Dallas, etc (~300 miles) away. I bet I never get more than 2,000 miles on it per year (and never towing) so thank you for your feedback. The debate on hardened valve seats or not goes on....
.
--------------------------
FYI:
The only source of valve retainers that I have found online are from Max Merritt and for $5.00 each I'm assuming they are the hardened ones that Jack strongly recommends.

My heads are at a shop now and will get cleaned up and magnafluxed next week (and springs measured) and we'll go from there to see what they need. Stand by for more questions then.....

thanks to all for looking and responding.

-Bob

As FredKanter states above i would definately avoid the hardened seats too. Don't let anyone tell u that any stainless steel replacement valves require hardened seats. I have one application here that runs extremely hot with SS valves and NO hardened seatss. NO PROBLEMS.