Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Good Evening...I agree with HH56 and would also add the distributor. The vacuum advance can be bad, the advance springs can be worn out and the bearings can be sticky/worn out. The cap and rotor clearance can also be way off on a few of the eight contact points...Easy does it...Ernie

What wears in a distributor are the bushing(s). If worn, the point gap is not constant causing poor running and difficult starts. The springs do not ware. A rebuilt distributor can make lots of difference

Thanks. This was all information I needed.

Just occurred to me that I also need some new manifold studs. Used to be you could walk into any auto parts store, look in the Dorman drawers under the counter and find anything like that. Not so anymore. Where would I find new studs? I have one short and one long one broken.

Where would I find new studs?

Try the better industrial supply houses like MSC in Harrisburg or McMaster-Carr, they have studs in many common configurations. But you'd probably have to buy a box of 25 or 50; if you just need 1 or 2, make them from a bolt but cutting off the head and threading the shank as needed.

If Kanter or Max does not have them, McMaster has the 2" length but not the 4 9/16 length. They are available to purchase individually in various strengths.

Don't remember what thread the block takes but they have the 2" studs in both 3/8 single thread sizes. If the stud uses a fine 3/8-24 thread on the exposed end and 3/8-16 on the block then only the two inch is carried. You would have to do as O_D suggests and use the bolt for the longer one. If they are the single size thread on each end then both are available in 6" lengths of all thread which you could cut down to 4 9/16.

I have done much of what you are describing on my Series 23 sedan. One thing I forgot to do is check the water distribution tube inside the block. Apparently you remove the water pump and pull it out from the front. Also with the core plugs removed the rust and scale inside the block should be scraped, dug out, and removed. These things insure the engine will cool properly, along with a clean radiator and a new water pump.

Also check the cam to make sure it is straight and not worn down. A cam grinding business can help with this.

Surfacing the clutch and flywheel is easy at this time and very hard to do later. A new clutch disk and throw out bearing are in the same category.

I like Then and Now to rebuild fuel pumps. They are very fast and not expensive. Make sure your engine has the heat shield on it to fight vapor lock.

I was wondering about the water distribution tube. I'm familiar with them in the old MOPAR 6 motors, I assume it's about the same, use a slide hammer with a hook, snatch it out. Assuming it's not rusted to pieces?

Same concept and similar construction as the Mopar tubes but made of brass.

Hopefully yours is brass but apparently some aftermarket steel tubes made it into Packards. Several photos on site of steel tubes that have rusted into tiny pieces.

You have the idea of removal correct but be careful. If the tube is brass it will not take a lot of pulling before the holes tear out. If it seems to stick you might get a long length of stiff but thin metal -- something like a bandsaw blade cut apart -- to reach down either side of the tube and try to work anything sticking it free.

ARP is probably the best current source for dimensional engine studs/bolts. Any of the online speed shops; Jegs, Summit, etc. or ARP website have the complete size list. Dorman et al still make them but, as you say, things are harder to buy*. Most parts places, like Rock Auto, Autozone, NAPA, etc might have them by make/year, not by size. And if it's pre 1984 it's likely not on the computer.
* - I went to NAPA the other day, and the counter kid got all flustered when I told him the vehicle first not the part I needed. What if you want more than one part? Gonna start over? They could at least train these kids how to look stuff up. When they got a new manager, she threw out all the old bins, etc. I order more and more online because of that. These kids can't find part when the computer says they have it, either. Putting themselves out of jobs. I keep the box tops now so I have the P/N for routine things. My buddy ran a NAPA store decades ago and he knew his entire inventory by part number. The guy that owned the store could tell you what vehicles they fit and how to repair parts. Today, with computers, they have no clue. SAD. But if they can send a new rotor from china cheaper than you can turn one these days, who's to blame?