Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Does anyone have a procedure for removing the radio from a
1956 Patrician with factory air. Should be simple enough.
Remove the glove box, remove the nut holding the brace on the back of the control unit, remove the nuts from the controls, etc.

With factory air, the A/C plenum blocks access for removing the glove box. How is the plenum removed?

The power unit for the speaker is separate and has been removed.

Space is very tight under the dash so before doing anything else start by disconnecting the battery to avoid any accidental surprises.

I would do everything possible to remove the cardboard glovebox before messing with the plenum. If after removing the right rubber duct and possibly the clock, the glove box retaining screws, light and latch striker plate on top, fold the bottom up slightly and possibly even make a slight crease at the left side screw locations so the glove box can slide back to clear the dash metal screw hole tabs and then slide to the right into the power supply area. If it absolutely can not do that to clear the space under the radio only then would I mess with what follows.

IF the box is still too long to slide back enough to clear the screw mount tabs and move to the right side where the radio power supply normally sits, the plenum is part of the evaporator box front cover so the entire front cover has to come off. The cover is held on by several screws on the sides and lower edge. One more is on the right front top. The rest of the top is held by a lip which is part of the box. It is a project to remove the cover because of the lack of space and access.

To remove the front cover, first remove the rubber ducts and unscrew the knob from the heater door operating rod. The rubber ducts may be cemented at each end so be careful in removing from the brittle bakelite louver bases at the tops. Next remove the screws across the bottom front and right side holding the bottom of the box to the sides of the evaporator and the front cover. The screws may be visible but could also be hidden under the rubber insulation. IIRC, there are also one or two screws facing down on the left side angled portion. It may be possible to remove all but the two end screws on the sides near the firewall and just tip the bottom front down an inch to release the front cover bottom edge but you still have the rod to remove from the plenum. I just take the bottom completely out of the way. The bottom will come out as one piece but may need a bit of maneuvering to get the rod out of the hole in the plenum. Whether you tilt it or remove it totally, watch out for two drain tubes thru the floor and any dirty water which may still be present in the bottom.

When the bottom is lowered you can then remove the front cover. The remaining screws are on each side and one at the defroster duct outlet at the top right. Once those screws are out, slide the cover down a bit to get it out from under the lip at the top and then completely out. I had the seat out when removing mine last time so can't remember how much clearance there is at the trans tunnel to front of seat to maneuver and slide the cover toward the passenger side. The lip could be a bit tight and try to hold the top in place as well as the bottom clearance question so be advised some contorting and strong words may be needed. The Bowden cable operating the heater/defroster diverter flap could also restrict side movement and might need to come off.

Once the front is off and all the glove box screws or obstructions removed, there should now be enough room to slide the glove box back into the inner evaporator space just enough to have the front edges of the box clear the screw mounting tabs in the dash edge. Disconnect the wire from the glove box light and remove the light by pushing it out of the hole in the dash. Push the wire thru the hole in the side of the box and then slide the box back and to the right side. Even with the shortened factory AC glove box it is still a very tight fit and a pain to remove.

Once the glovebox is out of the way, the radio can be accessed thru the door opening and slid back into the evaporator box, tilted and removed thru the glovebox opening.

I did not want to go thru that removal hassle again so made a new glove box which is about 3/4" shorter than the already shortened factory AC box. Made it so I can reach behind and push the back of the box out of some friction retainers added to hold the back in place. Once pushed into the box the back can be removed thru the door opening. After the back and light is out, screws holding the box can be removed which, with the shorter box, lets it slide enough to touch the front evaporator cover and clear the dash mounting tabs. Also made it without the top flaps at the middle seam being secured so without the back and with freed flaps at the top, the sides and top can fold in. That way the box will be slightly smaller and when tilted on a diagonal, maneuvered and completely removed thru the door opening. The original box could also be modified in a similar fashion if the cardboard is still in halfway decent condition. If it has turned into the typical dry and brittle mess after 60 years then it won't hold up to the folding. A new repro box could probably be transformed though.

Here are some photos showing the bottom, front cover, and the evaporator box. You can see most of the screw locations.

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Yikes...jerbear, better double check to make sure the radio is really your problem.....Just saying.

HH56--Thanks you. I was hoping for an easy solution, but my
gut was saying there is no such thing. Manuvering the
glove box, and destroying it if necessary, seems to be
the best option.
Someone used to advertise new boxes (which I could
modify), but I haven't seen them advertised lately.
Does anyone remember who made/supplied them?

Thanks again for the detailed explanation on plenum
removal--just in case I need to go that way.

Here is one source for a standard repro box if you want to modify one. Max lists one for factory AC cars and I believe Ron Carpenter (925) 933-1486 is another that makes them to order.

Thanks. I'll give Ron a call.