Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Well, it doesn't work, but I am not finding a leak. I have a couple of questions.

First, just how easy should the paddle move back and forth?

Second, I decided to put my new-fangled, lung-powered vacuum to it by connecting a hose to the vacuum lead. Here's what I note... I note that the little rubber cap that has air slots and moves back and forth with the bendix-controlled gear stays on when in closed position and I am sucking air. So, I am definitely pulling a vacuum. I just don't know how strong. I also note that when the paddle is in either extreme position (i.e. extreme right or extreme left) and I begin sucking air, the paddle will swing a smidge - but only a smidge and then it stops.

So, I am wondering whether my lungs can pull 19 psi like my car, and I am also wondering whether there is undue resistance which prevents the paddle from swinging. My guess is that the paddle is probably swinging fine, as the wiper gear to which it attaches is very resistant to swinging freely, due to the fact that it drives the blades from a fulcrum all the way to one side of the lever.

Any other good way to test?

It is rather stiff but don't have one in perfect condition to test with a pull scale-just the one removed (which needs rebuilding) when I converted to electric. Can check Wed with a pull scale if you can wait. The car mechanism is fairly stiff, and much more so with a dry WS but can check that also.

I doubt you can provide enough vacuum and volume with lung power to get much more response than you're getting, but with a proper vacuum of at least 10 and normally 15 or above inches doubt you could hold it. They are lots stronger than you think.

Slip a small brown paper bag over the wiper blades covering them completely. That will eliminate a lot of the friction between the blade and the glass and allow you to better judge the efficency of the wiper motor.

Previous vacuum test confirmed 19. I'd describe the difficulty of rotating paddle to be a bit less than turning a corkscrew into soft cork - about the same force as turning a door knob to a door that sits well in its jamb.

Also, when torning paddle to extreme, it does trigger the spring mechanism with the plastic cam at top. I can hear it click. I also saw the cam rock back and forth before assembly as I turned the paddle.

What I am looking for is a way to confirm whether I have a leak at gasket(s). I do hear the hiss when turning the paddle.

Only way I can think of is pressurize it a bit and maybe spray a soap mixture around gasket & look for bubbles. You might be able to move the paddle so all the pressure isn't leaking out a port but not a guarantee as the valves will be forced away from the seats instead of pulled to them.

You might also be able to hook up to vacuum and apply a small bead of the silicone around the gasket so it is pulled in instead of just lay there. It is sounding like you are going to have to redo the gasket or maybe even worth laying a tiny bead on the mating surface and do without the gasket and see what happens.

I can hear it hiss with it installed and the engine on. I know I'm not getting a good seal.

Lucky me. I arrived at the office and found some checks on the mail. I'm sending this ficker to ficken so they can fix the ficken thing.

But before I do that. What I will still be lacking is the proper coordination between the water jar and the wipers. Remember, mine had the water jar pump converted to electric. Therefore, there is no coordination that starts the wipers upon pushing the knob for spray. Supposing I go through the hassle and expense of getting ficken to rebuild my wiper motor, I just want to be sure I can still easily get the coordination function back as originally intended.

What do you recommend in this regard?

I'd recommend one of these, and be done with it: 1957 Chevy wiper motor

I've thought about converting to electric. But looking at that, for example, I wonder hopw much trouble it would be to mount it and then, link it up to my wiper blades. Different mount, plus different linkage to blades.

I'm all ears if someone can convince me of how easy it is.

Very easy, no changes in linkage needed. But to me and I know others will differ, authenticity should be respected and I'd keep the original vacuum system, especially since it works so well when in proper repair.