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I noticed on this site that it makes a big difference what part points and condenser I pick. If I am correct my 2611/2662 53 Clipper Deluxe is a Delco Distributer so it is important that the points, condenser, rotor and cap are all in sync with this. Autolite distributor asks for different part numbers. I just noticed this last night and need to know before I return the parts and get new part numbers. Please get back to me about this. Is Nape the choice for these parts? I got the others elsewhere.

Now I am confused. for my 53 Clipper Deluxe on the parts list on this site for the coil: it says All models 48-54 is #IC-9 Echlin Napa for Delco Distributor.
Then below: it says for 53 Clipper Deluxe #IC9VR Echlin Napa

Then Condensor: all models 42-57 RR-134 Echlin Napa for Delco Systems
Then for Clipper Deluxe 1953 is says # RR-174

Distributor Cap Clipper Deluxe1953 R159 Is it correct?

Points all models 1953 CS-77 with Delco Systems
Clipper Deluxe 53 CS77A may fit other models also
then ignition points all models 51-54 #CS777A

Rotor: 53 Clipper Deluxe RR158 Echlin Napa
Then all models 53-57 RR159

Will someone tell me if these parts are interchangeable or not? I want it to purr like a kitten with the CORRECT PART

IF your car still has its correct Delco distributor
The NAPA numbers are:
Points CS777A
Condensor RR174
Rotor RR159, but I prefer RR157 for better durability
Cap RR158


If perchance your car has Autolite it is another list of parts.

There is as tag on the side of the distributor which can be read with the aid of a mirror if there is any doubt. At this late point in time many cars have had components switched.

Also, Napa has discontinued the IC-9 coil although there may still be some around..Rock Auto was having a closeout on them not too long ago and had a few in stock.

The Napa/Echlin IC-7 is the replacement for the IC-9 and spec wise is a slightly more powerful coil. There is a small difference in physical size between the IC-9 and the original coils but nothing that would prevent it fitting. Many of us are using the IC-7.

Thank you I got the ic7 yesterday now since the car's been sitting for seven years with gas in the tank I just read online on the sock on the fuel pump could be bad and perhaps the fuel lines can you tell me what else to look for? I so appreciate this thank you

Take a look at my project blog...it will answer a lot of question on your car. (keep in mind the brakes between our two cars are different)

There is no "sock" in the fuel system anywhere. There is a screen on the intake side of the fuel pump that will patch bigger pieces, and also clog quickly.

If you read through my blog, you will see the trials I went through with my gas tank which had very old fuel in it, and lots of rust.

I was never able to get it de-rusted enough on my own and had it constantly clogging the inlet screen and the car dying while driving. I even installed a BIG filter back near the tank to catch all the crap. It would still overwhelm and clog that filter. Which was easier to clean, than having to disassemble the fuel pump.

In the end, I finally sent the tank out to be media blasted inside and out and have a sealer baked on. AKA the Renu process (see pic below). This comes with a lifetime warranty. This was done by Mac's Radiator in Bellflower.macsrad.com/gas-tank-renew/

They are the only place in So Calif that does this type of baked on sealer. Beware of "pour-in" sealers.

Now, this was before Kanter offered a repro gas tank. All and all the cost if similar. $300-$400

Also, if you read through my blog you will see I replaced all my lines (brake, fuel, vacuum, and rubber parts), as even a little pinhole will have a detrimental effect on the ability of the engine mounted fuel pump to "suck" fuel from the tank.

If you don't know when the fuel pump was last rebuilt, I would recommend having it rebuilt. There is a How-To Article here that covers that. The newer fuels will eat the older rubber gaskets and seals.

Living out in the "IE" where it was damn hot, I also pump an Aux pump back near the tank that I only use to prime after the car had been sitting, and in the event of vapor lock. I have a little switch under the dash just for that. But under normal operation, it runs completely off of the OEM engine mounted pump.

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