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Took the car out for about a 35 mile round trip last night with some friends. Performed well, but the direct drive still isn't kicking in until about 50mph. Guess the linkage needs more adjusting or I need to check the fluid again. There is a leak but last I checked it was in spec.

Also had a minor fuel spill when going around a corner, so I either didn't put the gas cap on properly, I need a new one OR I just overfilled the thing.

All in all, still going great!

I wonder how many of the updates your transmission managed to have done before Packard went away -- If it was bought by someone a distance away from the dealer and serviced by a local mechanic maybe none of them.

Packard had a very steep learning curve with the 55 TUs and aside from having throttle linkage geometry issues which resulted in late shifts in some cases, or in other conditions, premature shifts they also had valve issues. There was a kit to change the linkage geometry on 55 cars to help a premature kick down situation. Here is one bulletin pertaining directly to your late DD engagement. There are others addressing different valve situations causing other maladies. While less likely because the car looks to be in such good shape, the DD problem could also be caused if a bushing or shaft is worn resulting in a loss of pressure to the clutch. Kev's 54 gearstart won't go in DD at all because of a worn bushing and low pressure. The 55 TU is almost identical.

If a linkage adjust doesn't seem to be doing anything perhaps the problem is elsewhere and you might need a visit to Ross or someone who understands the Ultramatic.

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when you say the linkage needs "more" adjusting, rather than keep tweaking it, have you just tried the final version of the adjustment, from 1958 Studebaker-Packard service letter.

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We drove the car for many years and the DD worked fine including at over 100 mph on the Packard test track in about '72 at a national meet. Perhaps the adjustment is being made in the wrong direction, I've made that mistake.

So I did print out the page Owen printed previously and made sure everything was adjusted to how it outlined it, and it was - already. So after surfing the forums I found, I think it was Ross, that said sometimes adjusting the cross shaft to adjuster rod (F in the document) towards the firewall helped. It hasn't helped yet, but I'm going to re-check the fluid at some point this week. Oh it also seems smoother going into direct drive than before.

I also read, again I think from Ross, that after driving it for a bit to dump the fluid again - which is my plan. I'm not overly concerned, after all it is running and moving - I just want to be sure I don't burn it up.

I also noticed that the torsion level kicks in right on time to compensate for added weight, but it doesn't come back down unless I drive it for a bit. If I have passengers in the back and it raises up, then I park, it doesn't come down. But once I drive with them out of it, for about 20 seconds, it comes back down. Sticky switch?

I haven't been able to get to the car since the 11th and probably won't get to it again until later this week.

Loosen the 2 nuts retaining A and leave them only finger tight, then adjust it 1/2" one way and drive it with l;ight throttle noting DD shift point which may be subtle. Then adjust it 1/2" the other way from orig position and note shift point. Then find the shift point you want by trial and error.

This was a perfectly performing trans and if so still the DD shift point at low throttle may be difficult to detect

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Doubtful it is a sticky switch as far as motion is concerned. There is a slight "deadband" area where nothing will happen so the up down isn't commanded at every tiny bump but there could be other things going on.

One is the rubber bushings in the suspension could have a bit more friction due to old age and the suspension doesn't settle enough to trigger the action after the weight is out quite as rapidly as it would when new. Another is the time delay in the switch.. The nominal time before something happens when a level change is needed is 7-10 seconds. If you have an original switch, that is controlled by a heater bending a bimetal strip. The distance the strip has to move determines the time before anything happens and can vary. Also the contacts could be slightly oxidized and not making good contact when the bimetal contact first closes. As the heater continues to bend the strip, the extra pressure finally makes the connection.

Not much to update on my end, been enjoying the car and driving it all I can.

I did send it back to my mechanic two days ago to take care of a few odds and ends to limit the potential of any unexpected surprises (replacing old hoses, tracking down a few leaks, hit the chassis grease points & differential) I had planned on doing this myself but (surprise surprise) the free time I thought I would have hasn't materialized.

He's also going to look further into that sticking lifter.

In post # 2 you have a photo of a new accel pump and a wiped out, deteriorated one. The deteriorated one must be the one we installed when we recommissioned the car before selling it to you. I pulled an identical one from stock and soaked it in pump gas, the stuff with ethanol in it.

After one week it's perfect, I had thought that some additive was used that caused tre damage, now I'm sure that was it.

depends on the gas station and brand of gas too Fred. they are not all the same formula. unless you took the gas from his tank or from the same pump station and possibly even from the same day and soaked the same way...I don't see how this test is relevant. too many variables.