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Almost every point stated in the PI Guide is backed up with a Photo of some type. Also they do ackowledge the fact that Advertising Brochures and pre-production photos may not represent what was acutally done on the production vehicles, and they point out several examples of where this has caused problems for restorers in the past.

I really recommend that folks pick up a copy of these Judging Guides and they provide a nice condensed reference to this kind of information. I only bought the Engine section, but I know they have a couple other sections available. I think the engine section was like $25 when I bought it at the PI Meet a few years back.

With all the brake parts on hand, and the now that I have the correct 1-5/16 Impact Socket. It was time to work on those rear brakes.

So off with the rear wheels, then removed the stubborn cotter pins. Then I used the impact to brake loosed the axle nut. I loosed the axle nut until in was flush with the end of the axle shaft.

Then on went the old puller (Big Bertha). That puller is one heavy SOB, and the legs are spring loaded. So it a royal pain to get it aligned with the lug holes and the screw them in. With the puller on, and went at it with 1-1/2lb plastic deadblow hammer. About 100 wacks in the process, and the plastic deadblow showered the garage floor with steel shot. Mental note, next time use a 5lb sledge hammer. So thats what I did to finish the job.

That sound when it the drum finally pops is a bit like a gun going off. I thought I was going to require a change of underwear for a moment. The driver side drum had a old mud-dauber nest in it. Fun how those bugs get into everywhere. Anyway...pics follow.

BTW....One thing I did notice that disturbed me a bit was that even thought I had the transmission on Park. The rear wheels still moved. I even put the tranny on a gear, and it did the same thing. hmmmmm...hoping there are not tranny problems ahead of me.

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Yes, with trans in park or any selection the rear wheels will rotate as long as one or both are NOT on the ground. Look under the car at the drive shaft while turning a wheel. U will see that the drive shaft does NOT turn.

The wheels turn due to the differential effect of the rear axle.

Phew thats good to know, I was having nightmare tranmission visions. The first drum was easy to get off as I had the other wheel on the ground. But once I had the first drum off, then the second one was a bear as it kept turning as I was hammering on it.

Quote:


Kev, If both wheels are off the ground having the Transmission in park worn prevent the wheels from turning. As one wheel turns one way the one on the other side will turn the opposite way. The drive shaft should not turn in park. Pull on the parking break tightly. That should help.

When you put the axel nuts back on snug them down and drop the car on it's wheels with the trans in park and the break set. Make sure you torque them to the right spec. My rule of thumb is 90 to 100 foot pounds. In other words I don't think they can bee too tight.


Edit: Kev, a good thing to do next time is break the nuts loose before you jack up the car.

Bob, thanks for the advice, but the rear axel nuts were easy to loosed with the Impact. It was hammering on the puller where the drum kept spinning. Cant really do that on the ground as the wheels are already off.

I believe the 100 ft. lbs noted previously for the rear axle/brake drum nuts is much too light, I didn't check the manual but I think something like 240 to 270 ft.lbs is more in the range required. Remember, it's the force of the fit of the taper in the drum, not the keyway, that should drive the car. And I'd not do it with an Ultramatic in Park, remember that the actuating arm is only die-cast! Chock the wheels, set the handbrake, and then repetitively release the handbrake and reset in between torqueing.

Wow! Okay, so I am thinking I will surely have to replace drum brakes at some point down the road. I had no idea that puller was involved. Is this true of 1956? Can the puller be found at local auto parts stores?

In 56 Packard abandoned building their own rear axles, the 56 has a Dana/Spicer unit of more modern construction with flanged axles rather than the tapered axle stub so no puller is required. As a generalization, if you the rear wheels are attached with lug nuts, you most probably have a flanged axle and don't need a puller, if they are attached with lug bolts, you do.

Or you can just pull the wheel shell or hub cap - no big nut, no puller needed.

Kev. Use a tire iron or some other suitable bar of steel, maybe a BIG screw driver. Stick it thru the legs of the puller after some tension has been applied to the puller. Either hold it by hand while hammering or let the end of the tyre iron scotch against the ground.