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Even though the A pillars and header is different for the 55-6 wraparound windshield vs earlier I believe the roof panel is the same and was probably joined to the header in the same way. Maybe worth checking these areas Packard had issues with on the earlier models for the source of the leak. I know on my 56 the caulk or seal around some welds was dried and questionable in spots. Water can also run in the channels formed by the grooves in the windshield gasket and can go multiple places.

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OK so welding in new metal into the area I was talking about before is not as hard as I thought it would be but I forgot to take pics.

I have been dissembling the Rochester carburetor. Been taking my time and photographing everything along the way.

I do have one question for anyone that has ever rebuilt this carb. I clipped a photo (below) of the 4GC manual that I am using to guide me. I removed the both floats and then got hung up on item number 6. It says "Remove the pumps return spring from the pump well with a pair of long nose pliers". However, my 4GC has this small bar across the hole (I am pointing to it in the second image below) and its not wanting to come out. I am afraid of breaking it.

Anyone familiar with removing this tiny little item have any tips on this?

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As I recall, that is the bit that you pull with the needle nose pliers and is shaped like a T with the spring over the other end. It should pull right out without too much force.

As Don says, it is T shaped, and it is made of steel so not likely to break. If really stuck, give it a little twist so that the arms go slightly akimbo. You can easily flatten it when it is out. Some kits even include one.

Thanks guys. I got that little T shaped part out of the valve body tongiht. Its amazing what you can do once the fear is gone. Also the kit came with new like you said (image 2).

In the third image below (the piston with the long spring) I had to apply heat to get that out. Its supposed to more freely.

The last image is of the throttle body. All the little brass screws holding the flaps to the shaft are going to need heating also as they are all stuck. I put some PB Blaster on them but I am not expecting it to help much.

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I don't recommend removing butterflies unless there is some compelling reason. Better to just let the throttle body soak longer if they are sticky.

I don't remember the process name where a machine turns a rod against the end of the screw unless it is a version of staking. Whatever the process the screws may be secured by smashing or melting the ends of the screws flat so they cannot unscrew and get sucked in the engine.

OK Ross, I took your advice and left the throttle body intact. I put the whole thing into the Chem-Dip this evening. I'll check it out tomorrow night.

Howard is right the screws are hammered/locked into position. I already have to replace the two I removed from the chock but that's not a problem.

Thanks for the input.

I forgot to post the dramatic image of me putting the throttle body into the bucket.

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I'm not sure but I think over night might be too long. I would check it every so often and see hows it doing.
That's just my two cents, it's been a while since the last time I dripped a Carburetor.
Wes