Re: 55 newbie Questions
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There is absolutely no connection on a 1955 Packard between the transmission shifter and the ignition key switch. None whatsoever. Whatever interlock you may be imagining did not appear on cars until the 1980s... the result of so-called runaway cars which supposedly took off on their own while in neutral or in reverse and other conditions claimed. Car makers were forced to devise a system that forced the driver to plant their foot firmly on the brake pedal before the shifter could be moved out of "Park." But this is not the case with your Packard. There was absolutely no such thing as a shift interlock in 1955. If the shift lever is not moving into all positions, first check the linkage. Then check to make certain the trans has not already been abused or has a stuck park pawl. Get under the vehicle and check movement on the shift arm on the side of the transmission. This will confirm whether things up top are going to move properly. With so much missing, it may simply be a linkage issue. But the only way to know is to get under the vehicle and check. Of course getting a key made for the ignition switch is a very, very simple thing and this is a step that can be done very quickly and reasonably priced. This should be one of the very first things to do with a car like this one. The best thing to do when buying a car like this that has been sitting a long time and missing parts is to simply resolve to go through everything top to bottom. That takes a lot of time and cash, but there aren't too many shortcuts. Yanking out original parts and rodding it will only add a lot more work and make it a lot less Packard.
Posted on: 2017/10/31 13:42
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Re: 55 newbie Questions
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As Leeedy said, there is nothing common between the linkage and ignition switch except an electrical park/neutral interlock switch located on the engine side of steering column. That only connects via a wire between the start terminal on ign sw and the starter solenoid.
Since park and reverse are at opposite ends of the shift quadrant doubtful linkage to trans itself is the issue but there are a couple of mechanical things to look for. There are a couple of safety stops to prevent accidentally going into park or reverse. You need to pull the lever back toward the steering wheel to clear the stops at each end of the shift quadrant. If you are doing that motion and it still won't go then there could be a buildup of dirt and dry hard grease preventing the operation. The entire shift tube inside the column slides when the lever is pulled back. Another poster found that old grease and dirt had hardened in the area of the opening where the tube passes thru the trans linkage lever where it exits the tube and was preventing the tube from moving far enough for the pieces of the interlock to clear each other. Check that the tube is sliding freely as the lever is pulled back. If that is OK there is a horizontal bellcrank assy almost below where the lever exits the steering column. It changes the vertical movement of the rod from steering column to the horizontal rod to trans. It is mounted between a frame side bracket and a trans side bracket. Make sure the brackets are tight on each side and rubber insulating pads are intact so the entire assy is not trying to twist.
Posted on: 2017/10/31 14:23
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Howard
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Re: 55 newbie Questions
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Thanks Packard Don, I'm going to do a couple of test run with uploading pictures right now. I'm on a android phone.
Leedy, thanks alot for letting me know about when the interlock started. Run away cars, that sucks. I will defiantly check the linkage when I go this Saturday. One more thing I went to check the was the door to the gas neck/cap and to my surprise hahaha no gas tank. The fan on my engine spun, but it spun so freely I could not have spun the moter in my opinion. I moved on and saw that All but one valve cover bolt was missing. The one that was on there was loose so I pulled both valve covers and the rocker arms where intact, clean and had no play. I also have no distributor, cool and points, there is a hole behind the intake manifold where I believe the distributor went. Has any one found a hei swap for the Packard Engine. It done one could please pull measure and take a pic of there oil dip stick please I don't have one. I don't mind having non Packard parts in the car to get it running, i do however want yo keep the ENGINE Packard.
Posted on: 2017/10/31 14:23
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Re: 55 newbie Questions
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HH56 thanks I just seen your post,very helpful and since I have the service manual now I'm going to be ready to tackle this pro blem
Posted on: 2017/10/31 14:26
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Re: 55 newbie Questions
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Not sure if you mean trans or engine oil dipstick but here is a photo of the engine stick. Dimensions are from tip point to low & full mark and to bottom side of metal cap staked on dipstick.
Don't believe there is a complete distributor direct HEI swap due to the mounting but IIRC, some have machined and modified GM versions to work. Think they may have been Olds units because of the rotation but won't swear to it. Turobopackman did a couple but he hasn't posted for years and no idea if any are in service or how one would get in touch with him. IIRC, Jack Vines may have also done some work in that direction so you might send him a PM. Several have installed the Pertronix 12v units in the Packard dist.
Posted on: 2017/10/31 14:59
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Howard
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Re: 55 newbie Questions
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I ment engine thanks that's exactly what I needed.
Posted on: 2017/10/31 15:12
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Re: 55 newbie Questions
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Pic attempt #1
Posted on: 2017/10/31 15:17
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Re: 55 newbie Questions
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..
Posted on: 2017/10/31 15:18
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Re: 55 newbie Questions
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I was amused about the distance to your car! My own Packards are about a 10 hour drive from where I live so I generally fly up every couple months to get a couple weeks' work done. Just returned from there last Friday.
Since Packard was an independent that made its own parts, you'll likely not find much that will just bolt on from another make. On the distributor, for example, I would get the proper one, then convert it to pointless which is easy to do and you can also get a high power coil that looks like an original. As I recall, 1955 Packard was 12v POSITIVE ground so you would need to be sure to get the proper unit. Gas tanks and straps are available new and probably most steel fuel, brake and other lines can be purchased new in steel or even stainless, which would be preferable even if it costs more. First thing to do is to get an ignition key made, which should also fit the trunk. You can worry about the door locks later. Go through the brakes thoroughly, flushing the system and rebuilding or replacing everything no matter how good it looks on the outside. Then take an inventory and acquire all the missing parts (original parts are better and will help maintain future value). A good used radiator should be easy to find and other parts too. Other than making sure it isn't actually stuck, don't try to turn over the engine when its internal condition is unknown until you've at least checked the oil to be sure there is no water in it, then have changed it and the filter. Without a dipstick and with loose valve covers, water could easily have gotten inside. Probably too late but the last thing I would have done was to break off the tangs from the brake drums in order it put on different wheels. Since Packard uses bolts rather than studs, those tangs are crucial to being able to mount a wheel, especially when beside the road in the dark with a flat! They hold the wheel in place while putting in the bolts so now you'll need to replace all the drums too, an expense and effort that would have probably been unnecessary.
Posted on: 2017/10/31 15:25
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