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Can anyone tell me how to remove the ignition switch from the dash without scratching the woodgraining?

Nervous in Indiana,

Steve

IIRC it's spring-loaded. Push in from the rear (towards the dash) and rotate the bezel to remove.

Thanks. That sounded great, but the switch won't move in any direction, including toward the dash.

If anyone has more ideas, I'd be glad to have them.

Remember, the bezel is the outer ring of the switch on the dash. Maybe it is corroded? Will WD 40 hurt the wood grain? Use masking tape?

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What does the bezel look like and how many positions on the switch? If it has a sort of rounded smooth tapering in shape from the key area to the dash and switch has 3 positions it is a 23rd -26th series switch. Those are spring loaded so should push toward the dash from behind. The spring is rather strong so it does require a good push and will only move a small amount -- maybe a sixteenth of an inch at most.

There is also the possibility a 22nd series type switch was installed. That switch has two positions and the bezel is more like a thick cylinder with squarish barely rounded over edges on the front. There is probably a small round depression or two on the side of the bezel. On that type switch, it does not move and the bezel unscrews from the switch sort of like a nut would unscrew from a bolt.

This one matches your description of a 23rd series switch. Tapered at about 45 degrees from the center to the dash surface. It does have three positions. The switch center looks cocked about a sixteenth of an inch, so maybe it's in a bind.

PO installed an electric fuel pump instead of buying a new mechanical one and wired it to the ignition switch so it's on full-time. I bought a new mechanical pump and would like to wire the electric to a toggle switch to use for cold starts after sitting for a while. The PO may be responsible for the bind it's in, and it may be--heaven forbid--cross-threaded.

Thanks for the info. I'll try again.

Here is what the 23-26 switch looks like. The bezel turns a quarter turn to get the slot lined up so it will come off.

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Got it! A quarter turn did it, all right. but I had to put black electrician's tape around the bezel and turn it with Channel Locks. Got it out with no damage to the woodgraining. The bezel looks bent on the back side and I don't find the spring washer at all, so I think some new parts and maybe some re-engineering may have to happen.

Thanks, guys, for all the help. Now if I can just stretch the wires far enough to get the switch below the dash...

Be really careful of the old fabric and rubber wiring. Too much flexing and sharp bends and the old dry rubber will crack and come off in chunks. It can even happen inside the harness where the plastic or woven cover has the wires confined.

Follow-Up: I finally got a mirror under the dash to have a look from that perspective, and--lo and behold--the PO had a well-hidden switch installed that controls the electric pump. Sure wish I had looked for it sooner. I put the ignition switch back in and...case closed. Thanks for all the help, guys. I did learn something about taking out the ignition switch, so maybe it wasn't a complete waste of time.