Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

Great! thank you for the advice.

Regarding the tire size, 6.70 X 15 is way too narrow a tread for a 23rd Series Custom; that is a size for a smaller/lighter car such as a Chevrolet. According to the Coker Tire website, 8.20 X 15 (bias ply) or 235/75R15 (radial ply) tires are correct for your car. I suspect those 6.70s would be at least a contributing factor to the handling problems you are experiencing. Perhaps tire shopping should be the first item on your Custom's "to-do" list.

Thanks Don for the advice. I thought so. I will get new tires and refill the front shock absorbers as soon as I can. I want to enjoy the car a little more before winter.

I agree with Don, but don't go overboard (even wider is not better) because of the tight fit in the back.

I will check the space in the back. Thank you. Have a great day.

I have these experiences on my 1950 Series 23 Touring Sedan. First I went to a good alignment shop and had the front and rear suspension rebuilt and aligned. Then I got rid of the wrong size Coker tires and bought some Diamondback radials. The tire size is critical because there is not enough space on the rear for modern low profile tires. The result worked well but the cost was about $3000 for everything.

If you want a cheaper solution you can check for slop in the suspension and replace only the worst parts. Checking the toe-in is probably the most critical alignment issue but it will be impossible to hold the setting if the joints have slop. Replace the tires after checking the suspension because the new tires can be damaged by misaligned front suspension.

Thanks Fred.
I had the alignment done about 3 weeks ago, but from the answers i got from all the messages, I definitely must check the front shock absorbers first, replace the tires, and replace the rear shocks.
I had given the shop a copy of the spec for the alignment. However, once I fix the suspension and replace the tires, I will have it checked again.
Regarding the tires I was thinking L78-15 Classic Bias ply from Coker (because of price), but can you elaborate on the preference for Diamondback radials?
Do you know if there is a significant driving difference?
Since I have to buy a new set, I might as well buy what's best.
I replaced the pitman arm, all the rubber bushings, and the stabiliser links, and had the front end services (greased).
As far as cost...I know what you mean..I am not done yet and I know how much I spent already. But my car is in real good condition, except that it has been sitting for few years, and needs some mechanical TLC..

my $.02 is that the radials drive better, but be aware that they can be a judging deduction in some venues, if that matters to you. Radials didn't come out until the mid fifties, and weren't offered by American OEM's until much later than that.
my comment is based on driving two different cars, though, not both on the same car.

Also consider blackwalls vs whitewalls, which comes down more to personal preference, but if you choose whitewalls I'd try to be original or close to it in width

Thanks bkazmer.
I am not concerned by a judging deduction. As my car is a very good condition, it is not Concours. I think for the amount of driving i do per year, i will try to stick as close as possible to the original in width.

I went through the same trade-offs on my Packard. I have already had enough bad experience with Coker to never use them again. The bias ply tires are not as directionally stable as radials so look for radials. I bought Diamondback radials because they look authentic on the car. However they are very costly and you have to run high tire pressure to keep the whitewalls from cracking.