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The plastic knob on my overdrive lockout cable was cracked and broken off. With the ridge on the dash side of the cable, it doesn't appear that a new replacement knob can be installed from the inside end in the cable. Is there any way to replace the knob without having remove the inner cable from the liner to add a new knob. The cable is installed on the OD unit and would have to be completely taken out to remove the inner cable. Is there an easier way to add a replacement rather than having remove the cable?

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It appears the original knob did not slide in over the brass ferrule, it was actually moulded around the ferrule. So a new knob is not going to simply slip on, regardless of how you thought to go about it. I'm not sure just what is the best way to go about a fix, it will be interesting to see what others suggest.

The 47 knob just threads on and am fairly sure it is the same setup on yours. If so you should be able to pull out and hold the shaft to unscrew the insert. I don't know if the OD knob repros have an insert -- if not, the plastic may just thread onto the shaft as some of Yesterday's (LaVine's) other repro knobs did. That seems to work although I did have to use a tap and clean up a repro knob threads I used for another purpose. The plastic on the replacement does seem to hold but it is not under as much stress on my application as the OD knob would be.

One other possibility if you need to keep the insert is to drill out the repro for the insert then fill the cavity around the insert with epoxy. Add two or three small divots to the inside of the cavity so the epoxy can grab into the plastic. McMaster also has different inserts if the lip on the original's end is too big for a safety margin around the hole.

In the chance your knob and insert was molded to the shaft you can remove the bracket, pull out the shaft to expose some working room and prepare the knob as above for the epoxy method. Just let the bracket and shaft hang straight down while gluing but take precautions so the knob is on straight and stays that way while the epoxy cures enough to be hard.

Howard,

I wasn't sure if the brass would unscrew. I didn't see any visible threads on either end of the brass so I didn't want to try twisting it without some confirmation. I'll try to see if it will unscrew. Thanks, Joe

FYI - I'm getting close to putting some gas in the tank to test the fuel gauge!

Most of them that I've seen simply unscrew with the metal knurreled part shown in your photo being molded with the plastic. I have one for a prewar that I'll need to check when next at my shop!

The brass does in fact screw off. Thanks for the help.

Joe