Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

Has anyone tried using an all in one solution, similar to this unit,ebay.com/itm/7-Brake-Booster-MC-Firewall ... X%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649, on a 1955 Clipper? It seems to me that a unit like this mounted through the vent hole, would be a relatively easy method to move up to a dual master cylinder with power brakes, and not have to worry about modifying the original brake pedal to get the proper ratio. After a long time of inactivity, I'm getting ready to start back on my project. I believe my BTV is frozen and beyond repair, so I'm looking for reasonable upgrade possibilities. I'm building a "driver" and not a show car, so I plan on adding some modern amenities such as power windows and door locks, aftermarket AC, etc, so 100% originality is not my prime concern.
Thanks in Advance,
John

This is what I did on my 1955 Patrician:

1956packardpanther.com/Panther/powerbrakes.html

This is what I did on my 1956 Panther:

1956packardpanther.com/Panther/booster.html

Craig

The ebay unit would probably work and as long as you have a clear firewall space installation might be relatively easy. I don't know how much flexibility there would be with that particular pedal and mounting method though.

Craig's two options are the most proven installs. His 56 Panther approach is similar to what you contemplate and has been done by others in various ways using the vent hole and other close by locations. It seems to work well. If you do a search, there are a few photos of a project Jerry did on his car using a high firewall location and a similar setup but with a more elaborate bracket and pedal arrangement. Downside is it requires space high on the firewall which may mean rerouting some of the loom or an electrical component and is quite noticeable. In Craig's car I believe he is using a new aftermarket loom but if you have the original that may be harder to work around. With the unit higher It does look like the vent could be retained by changing location of the flapper valve to the long fixed metal tube and possibly connecting to the dash with duct hose below the booster rather than the short fixed tube. If you like the fresh air vent that might be a plus.

Upside to the 55 Patrician approach is it utilizes the same space as the BTV, is relatively unobtrusive in the engine compt and fairly easy to install. Downside is it requires extensive pedal mods to increase the pedal ratio because of that low location so noticeable inside the car and requires learning a different "pedal feel".

Others have used the ElectroBoost system from ABS Power Brake keeping the location and pedal stock. That unit seems to work since the output is adjustable and can be increased for the low pedal ratio. The fact the pedal ratio is so low makes me wonder if that approach would be safe if the boost failed though none of the people who installed it seem to have the same issues or concerns. Downside is that unit is fairly expensive.

This is what I did on my 1955 clipper. I will have to make a new pedal tho

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Is this like Craig's Panther project upgrade where the holes were drilled in the firewall? Is that a 7" booster? It appears that placing the unit above the steering column would allow for the ebay unit I referenced, to be used with the included pedal, possibly without modification.
I don't mind spending money on the car, but being on a fixed budget, I'd hate to spend the $ only to find out that the unit would not fit.

That does look like the start of a nice install. Looks to be a dual 7" booster?? Were you able to keep any of the firewall openings for the loom usable or will there be a new loom exiting at a different location? How much clearance is there to the emergency brake mechanism?

Aside from the loom, electrical looks to have some clearance problems. Power window relay relocation is not much of an issue on 55s since it can move higher to the ledge like 56 did but for anyone wanting to install the booster on 56 cars the torsion level solenoids and electric shift relays would appear to be very close to the brake line. Is there enough clearance the lines can be bent rearward or downward to move them away from the edge of the inner fender or will it be necessary to relocate the solenoids, fuses or relays? On the interior will the heater duct clear the high pedal mount location or will that need to be revised and how about the wiper tensioner?

It is a 7" booster, I bought everything from master power brakes( would totally purchase from them again) it came with the pedal assembly and brackets, but you will have to modify. I supported mine to the dash/steering column bracket. I'd take a pic, but I can't get into the car at the moment. Like I said, I will make a new pedal that will work, and I can't totally remember the heat plenum... but I'd rather change that and have good brakes. Lol.

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Nice. Plenty of clearance for the emergency brake. Original loom would need some relocation work so something to account for when anyone considers doing the mod. TL solenoids might need to move an inch or so if a 56 but without the vacuum reservoir which shouldn't be needed with a modern booster, plenty of room to slide over. Getting to TL fuses might be an issue but they could be extended. Electric shift relays not so sure about as the control relay sticks out a bit and might be close to the end of the master. I believe Keith had to relocate his when he installed his booster in the vent opening. Maybe this one is high enough to avoid that.

Fortunately, my Clipper is completely stripped. I have an aftermarket 22 circuit harness with all GXL wire. Interior is gutted as well, so I have all sorts of room to work and move things around as needed. The engine is on the mounts, but will be coming out soon which will leave lots of room to work up front.