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The predominate rubber type is still SBR and is cross-linked. So it doesn't remelt and recycling is not really an issue. there have been efforts to grind up the rubber into little pieces and incorporate them into a rubber or plastic matrix, but the cure packages used in SBR smell and it has seen little success.

I think much of the refusal of chain stores to mount old tires and the use of DOT codes was because the failure of aged tires was recognized, not just that it started happening when it didn't before. Perhaps a side effect of lawyer proliferation after that.

Thanks for the information regarding the tires. I do like the bias ply tires because I know they will last longer than the steel belted radials.

As for the 41, the tires are too big, but we will leave them on until we wear them out. Then we'll buy the right size.

I just put in a new headlight wire harness. Now I need to figure out how to get the parking lights grounded.

I also need to figure how to put on the chrome surround on the headlights. The top does not fit. See pictures. How does the tab fit into the chrome piece?

The parking lights have a rubber gasket to keep it from scratching the paint but it also isolates it from ground.

I need to add 2 more spots to the wire terminal block for the turn signals. The turn signals were just twisted wires, wrapped in black tape. Just didn't look good.

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I will have to look at my 42 to be 100% sure, but turn signal are not on the junction block. wire to wire with plastic connector.

In the picture you have the rim on top of the tab-it goes under it.

On the turn signals Dell is correct. Packard never had a terminal junction block connection for turn signals -- just inline wire connectors that were typically found positioned somewhere in the area around the fender junction block. That was the method of choice thru 56.

Not sure if prewar cars used the round Douglass or the flat Wade terminals. Both are sort of obsolete but terminals and the inline connector piece are still available from a few of the old loom places such as Rhode Island Wiring -- somewhat expensive though. Closest modern and less expensive equivalent is the round bullet connector or the .250 quick tab. Both can probably be found at a local parts store. A layer of black heat shrink over the terminal wire connection ends and the plastic connector piece will disguise the modern look.

Here is a snip from the factory 42 wiring diagram and I believe that part of the diagram would be the same for a 41.

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Thanks Dell and Howard. Rhode Island wiring sent the wire harness with spade lugs not a bullet type connector. My 40 160 Sedan has the bullet connector. That's why I was going to try for another terminal block. The parking light wire in the car now is just a wire that was twisted and wound with black tape. I could try the modern type bullet connector, that would be quick and easier.

We added more fluid into the drivers' side front knee shock absorber. It is always low and I can't see where it's leaking.

I bled the front brakes and the brake pedal was near the floor and is now half way up and feels great.

The parking lights are not grounded. I will try to cleanup the metal where the parking lights are bolted on to see if that helps for a ground. The car came with a wire stuffed in with the light bulb and that wire going to a screw on the headlight bucket. At least it worked and you couldn't see it.

We took it for a spin and it seems to creak when we turn left. I have greased all the zerk fittings I could find. I looked in the steering column box and there is liquid in there. So I'm still looking for the creaking noise. I want him to drive it but it is over 100F here in Phoenix and won't cool down until November.

It still need a muffler and the top does not work automatically. I wonder if I need to put it up and down a few times to get it working. It hasn't been used in a long time.

If you need spade connector I can send you two, Give me your address and will drop them in the mail.

The modern bullet connectors come in different sizes. Typically those right around .156 in diameter will fit the factory round sockets -- at least in postwar cars. There is a Ford style which is larger but could be too big and there is a European or small style which I don't believe will work on anything Packard used.

Hello

I have a 41 Club Coupe, which I'm happy to say is free of most of the issues described here. That's a lovely looking convertible, but I'm glad I don't have to deal with the roof opening mechanism! The cross I bear is that my car was converted to 12V by a previous owner.

My tuppence worth on tyres (or tires, as you say). The biggest difference between bias and radial ply tyres is what happens when they fail. It's often to do with the presence of tubes, but not always. As a motorcycle rider, I'm familiar with the catastrophe which usually follows failure of a tubed tire - including bias ply. Failure of a radial tire tends to happen more slowly, so even I have time to understand what's happening and pull up safely. That's the reason I use modern radial whitewalls on my Club Coupe - yes, in the correct sizes. I've found that virtually all vehicles perform better with the original tire sizes they were designed for. Fitting larger tires may look better, but there is no other advantage in my experience. This is especially true of vintage race cars, where suspension loads are magnified.

It's true that modern tires deteriorate faster than older ones. It may have to do with the construction, but is mostly about modern compounds. A race tire which is say two years old will be much slower than a fresh one. It's surprising how fast the modern ones deteriorate, but I would always opt for modern radial construction. I buy my race tires from US dealers with large volume turnover - the tires are invariably freshly moulded. Unlike the stuff available from local dealers where they are likely to have sat in a shed for a couple of years and are well past their prime.

So, in normal road use it's not so surprising that a useful life of 7-8 years for modern tires is the norm. I have owned vintage cars whose tires were not much younger than the car itself! They often looked fine, but were an accident waiting to happen.

This is a controversial topic, and everyone has an opinion (including me). I dare say others will hold different views!

Cheers Brian

Can anyone tell me how to access the convertible top pistons that are located in the rear sides of the back cabin in my 120 coupe? I do not know the best way to remove the trim panels on each side. I believe the piston seals are in bad shape and leaking air during up and down operation of the top. Next question is has anyone replaced the seals inside the convertible top pistons? I've been told the seals are leather. I would appreciate any help you can share including any photos. Thanks so much!!! Craig

If Flackmaster or no one else here can help there was a person who posted a few months ago on the PAC forum with similar convertible issues. No idea how active he might be on the forum but if he still checks in you might try sending him a private message and see if he picks it up. Possibly he has some insight to share or can detail what he might have done in fixing his 42.packardclub.org/forum/viewtopic.php?f=7&t=5699