Packard Forum Index » Post-War (1946-54)

The 356 engines (except the marine version) used a 5-bladed asymmetric fan.

There was a special heavy duty fan made available for 22-23 small series engines which was later made available to engines as far back as the 17th series. We are missing bulletins 49T-14 and 50T-29 which might give details on the fan so don't know if it was more blades or more diameter.

For 51-4 they made a heavy duty fan that I believe later became stock on upper end models. Those increased the diameter almost 2" from 18" to 19 7/8" but I believe kept the 4 blades. That may be the same heavy duty fan used on the 22-23 series since the blocks are the same. Fans on AC equipped cars were 6 blade and probably the 19 7/8 inches.

As far as I can tell only the 356 used the 5 blade and I know those have a different sized water pump hub than that of the 288/327 block engines. There was a heavy duty fan for AC equipped prewar 356 engines but finding a spare one is likely not that easy. It was probably a 6 blade too.

Joe;

I think I have some information to answer your question on whether a 'small diameter' thermostat will affect the coolant temperature. The short answer is maybe at low outside air temperatures, and very likely yes at higher outside air temperatures. The reason for the two answers is for low outside air temperature only a small flow area is needed and this area is achievable with either thermostat. At some elevated outside air temperature the small thermostat is full open, but the larger thermostat is not at full stroke. See attached file for the excessively long answer.

What I would like to know are your results with the electric cooling fan . . . the 6 volt version, not the one time 110 volt fan experiment.

dp

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David,

That is quite an extensive analysis that you put together. Thank you!

I still have yet to read it all in detail but it looks rather thorough.

As for the results with the 6 volt pusher fan. I am getting good results. If the car heats up at idle, the 6 volt fan holds the temperature and the temperature creep does stop when it is on. (No increase in temperature once I turn it on)

The only challenge is that the 6 volt fan does not run very fast at idle since the generator is not putting out much current and I am mostly drawing down the battery (since RPMs are low). I can alleviate this somewhat by increasing engine speed in neutral.

I am looking seriously at having the generator converted to an alternator (but still keep the generator housing) so that I can still deliver 20 to 30 amps at idle and have the pusher fan run fast.

A few companies offer this option for older cars.

I need the fan to run fast at idle and the alternator seems to be a good solution for this. Of course, I want to keep the car looking as original as I can so the generator housing and voltage regulator housing will stay there in appearance but will be functioning differently.

Joe;

Four years ago I installed a PowerMaster PowerGEN 6 volt positive ground unit. You get to choose pulley width . . . I opted for the 5/8-3/4 versus 3/8. The 'long GM' unit drops right in. The only locally supplied part was the spacer in the third bolt position, and a longer than normal bolt to suit. That spacer allowed the Packard 'strap' to be used without a 'bend to fit' modification. PowerMaster's website states that this unit will provide 50 amps at idle, but I'm not sure they appreciate how low the idle is on a Packard, so temper your expectations. I suspect it will be at least 30 amps.

My car was originally equipped with Autolite equipment, so I fitted the Autolite data plate that I got from EBay (Delco tags are equally available). Also the alternator did not come with a Field binding post, so the end cap and aft extension piece were removed to facilitate the drilling of the pseudo Field pole. All of the OEM wiring was insulated, folded-back, and wrapped with black vinyl tape. The warning tag on the Field pole was a PowerPoint project.

The main output power is first routed to a head-light relay set-up, and then to the 'BAT' side of the voltage regulator. This head-light relay system consists of two circuit breakers, and two relays . . . one circuit for the high-beam, and another for the low-beam. The head light electrical load at the OEM head-light switch has been reduced by approximately 16 amps. I run a higher than normal idle speed, and the ammeter does not indicate a discharge at idle with the head-lights ON. I also have a voltmeter plugged into the cigar-lighter socket, and it indicates 6.8-6.9 volts at the same condition. That would indicate some current margin is still available.

Knock on wood, no issues since installed. Now if I could only find some short, counter-sunk, metric, slotted head screws, I'd be all set.

dp

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Not sure exactly what you are looking for but McMaster-Carr has slotted flat or oval head metric screws of various diameters and in fairly short lengths.

I was able to get the alternator built into a generator housing so that I don't lose the look of the original equipment but now at idle, I get excellent charging. I am maintaining 7 to 8 volts on the battery at idle even with the headlights on high beam.
The pusher fan works much, much better than before since it is getting plenty of juice at idle.
The lights no longer dim at idle.
The company (Gener-nator) also built me a delco-remy look alike voltage regulator to mount on the firewall to keep the original look (even though the voltage regulation is actually being done inside the alternator).

I realize that I have moved away from the original car circuitry which was a difficult decision but for safety and other performance reasons, I believe it was a good decision.

Pictures are listed here

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Can you tell me what Alum radiator you put in your car? I am in Surprise and have a Standard8 that may need a radiator. Thanks