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The TL ride on my 56 Executive is need of repair and I am no longer capable of doing the work myself. I do have knowledge of the TL ride system on my car and it has the following problems: the compensator gear box is cracked, the rear end is currently is stuck in the high position, the crosslink bars are positioned so close to the frame that there is no access to the end caps, there is a 3-way manual switch installed. There is a voltage drain somewhere in the TL system of about 6 or 7 volts. I have posted that I will possibly sell the car as is but I want to find a repair resource anywhere in the US, preferably Colorado that has the knowledge and capability of repairing the TL for myself or to pass on to the new owner. Understanding that this may mean parts, labor and transportation to and from. Please leave a message at (719) 594-5663 or message me at 56packard@centurylink.net

Had a problem with non functioning brake lights. It turns out that it was a bad stop light switch. A volkswagon stop light switch solved the problem. However, during the install, it was noticed the brake lights were very dim. A voltage check at the switch of the light green wire, showed only 5 volts. To correct this the mechanic ran a wire from the power supply line with 20 amp fuse to the light green connection at stop light switch. This provided the full 12 volts to the stop lights. I was told he noticed on wiring diagram this is the last link in the torsion level system to get power. I have noticed for some time, something in the car's electrical system was draining my battery. This would happen running or off, torsion level system or clock? Does the running of this 12 volt wire present an issue with the TL system? Do you have any input?

The purpose of going thru the brake switch is to prevent operation of the TL when brakes are applied. Whether stopping the action during braking is that important I don't know. Packard glossed over the switch in their SAE description paper just saying the brake switch was to prevent operation during braking but no specific reason why. I believe I remember reading in another publication it was because when coming to a stop, inertia may make the level want to change. If the front is down when the car is stopped after braking the compensator would want to level and there is no need if the car is going to level out on its own upon acceleration. Having the compensator active when brakes are applied would only cause the compensator to work again to relevel a second time. It sounds like the mechanic has defeated the switch entirely by running voltage directly to the green wire and TL circuit.

Normally on a 56, 12v power for the TL comes from the battery terminal connection at the starter solenoid via a red wire thru a 30 amp fuse to the buss bar at the TL solenoids. That fuse is overall TL power and is high amp for the motor power. On a 56, from that same fuse and buss bar connection point, power is taken and run back out thru a separate 7 1/2 amp fuse via a pink or purple wire directly to the common terminal of the brake switch to feed the TL control switch internals and the brake lights. In theory with that arrangement if there was a problem with brake lights & wiring or control switch & wiring the 7 1/2 amp fuse only would blow but in actuality they would probably both go. The downside in the 56 circuit is if there is a problem with the compensator motor and the 30 amp fuse blows the brake lights also go. Both fuses use inline holders located next to the solenoids on the left inner fender panel.

When brakes are relaxed 12v from the fuses is fed from the common to the brake switch normally closed terminal and out the green wire and ultimately the TL switch. When brakes are applied the switch changes and voltage is cut from the light green TL control circuit and goes directly via the normally open switch terminal to the dark green wire and brake light bulbs. The light green wire only provides power to the TL control switch and not the brake lights. Not sure which diagram your mechanic is looking at to conclude the light green wire is providing power to the brake lights.

For the voltage to be only 5v at the brake switch, assuming nothing has been changed from the stock power source or added and is somehow pulling the voltage down, it sounds as if one of the fuse holders or a wire connection has some poor contact issues. Old fuses can age and get a high resistance and contacts can oxidize in the holders. Possibly there is a miswire at the brake switch or a bad connection at that 3 position plug if it is still in use with the VW switch. Some have had issues with longevity when using the VW 3 terminal switch so most have now gone to the commonly available 2 terminal switch and relay conversion if the original switch needs replacing. If the car has had a manual operation switch added and that was done improperly it could also be causing an issue.

55s use a different fuse and component layout so TL (and brake lites) get power from two fuses from independent sources. A problem with the compensator motor doesn't disable brake lights on 55s but other than that the electrical operation is the same.

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As far as the power drain and the clock, if the clock's contact points are stuck in the closed condition, this would cause a drain. If the clock isn't working, I would check it or at least temporarily disconnect it so see if the drain goes away.

HH56, thank you for the reply and I understand what you said. I had mixed feelings about fixing the tl issues, spending more money or selling the car and being done. I will probably sell the car and give the new owner(s) this info as I understand so they can continue with the car.

thank you, the clock works.

Not to jump into someone else's question but this quickie doesn't warrant its own. Which direction does the under-dash switch need to be for ON of the system and isn't there an under-dash fuse for 1956?

If the switch is in the hole per stock the toggle is toward the center of the car when on. In 56 both fuses are under the fender near the solenoids and placed in inline holders. A 30 amp main fuse for the motor and associated circuitry which also feeds a 7 1/2 amp fuse that provides power to the brake light switch. Voltage out of the brake switch when brakes are relaxed goes to the under dash on/off switch and then on to feed the control switch circuitry.

Don, you could read the owner's manual, it mentions which position is off. As I recall, switch towards the door jamb is OFF but check the manual to confirm if no one chimes in with that info.

Thank you Dave. I'm actually in my shop with only my iDevice so looking things up isn't easy.