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Well.....luck ran out.

That Trico washer motor is not as good as it looked. I got it home and it masked off all the plastic pump parts to media blast the lid as it had some (thought to be) surface rust on it. Well that surface rust was more that that. The metal on the lid was so thin in places from rust that spread under the "cardboard" seal on the bottom side of the lid, that the 80 grit glass bead (which is very gentle) blew holes right through the it a few places. Mostly where anything was riveted to the lid itself. It is also paper thin around the where the refill hole is.

Also the pump itself would need a rebuild kit. The seals in the bottom portion of the pump are dried and cracked and the large metal spring is almost completely rusted thru. I guess you cant judge a book by its cover. Amazing how it can look so good on the outside, and be so rotten underneath where you cant see it. I would imagine that no one would take it as a rebuild core due to the rotten lid.

Well if anything, I have the glass jar and bracket. So I just need to find a good "Mag-Nu-Matic" (thats what Trico called it) Washer Pump itself. Any leads appreciated. I have an email into Ficken to see what there prices are.

Just the glass jar & bracket is a find. Merritt wants $100 for just those 2 items & 325 for the pump so you're well ahead.

Tuscon Packard advertises the rebuild kit but unknown price. McVeymcveys.com/ also has the rebuild kit and IIRC, was around $80 which includes a lid and seals, rings, valves etc of the internal goodies. Their new online store doesn't seem to be online right now to confirm the price. I can probably help with the spring.

Howard,

Thanks for that link. I was able to get into their store.

cart32.com/estore/template/detailed.php? ... thumbnails.php&cid=3&pid=101&page=2

It looks like it's $84 for their "deluxe" kit. Which includes the lid. I guess you drill out the rivets, and re-rivet using the ones in the kit. So if they make this kit, I wonder if the Lid is included in Max's deluxe rebuild service?

But just like the Ranco valve, I may try to do it myself. I wonder what kind of tool is required to seat those rivets?

I would imagine that these lids rusting was a common problems or they would have gone through the trouble of building a kit for it.

Kev,

Thanks for your kind words-- I think I have an idea for the thread and can move my post if I can figger out how. If you like, you can add your Route 66 posts over there and we can get something going.

My Subject idea is "Best Road Trips" for Packards and More. Look for it over on the General Board.

Well a few project updates. I got the rear axles all buttoned back up. I then got the rear brakes back together, drum reinstalled, and then hit it with the impact gun to tighten it down. Put the tires back on dropped the car back on the ground and then torqued the axle nut to 235lbs with a 3/4" torque wrench. The specified range is 200-270. So I just split the difference at 235.

I still need to adjust the parking brake cable, and also adjust the shoes. Then I will be onto replacing the hardlines. But at least the old gal is on 4 wheels again.

Also are a couple pictures of the fuel door gaurd and new horn button I picked up at the swap meet.

Finally a picture of the first part of my future A/C system. The powersteering pulley to crank pulley bolt on. Next I jsut need to source a powersteering bracket for the A/C compressor. The rest is gravy.

Also one question to finish up the front steering. How much are the cross tube ends supposed to be tightened? I could not find a specification of this in the manual.

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Looking good. What contingencies if the PS bracket isn't able to work--the cross the front of engine piece you took pictures of? Really don't think the comp will mount so pulley will clear without cutting a good part of bracket away. Also, try to get the 54 backet as some of the 53 apparently flexed and cracked. They added some heft & a diagonal brace up to oil filter bolt area for 54.

As to crosstube, I believe they are similar units and the 46-50 manual (Sect 3 pg 46) states to snug up tight, then back off 1/4-1/2 turn

Well if the PS bracket will not work, then I will fab up my own bracket, or modify the PS bracket to work. But I think the general placement in the original PS pump location should work, and keep it a little more hidden than some of the other setups I have seen. Plus there are already threaded holes in the block ready to accept a bracket. The Sanden compressors for sure are lighter and smaller then the original compressors.

Thanks for the info on the cross-tube. I figured it was something like that as I don't remember it being that tight when I removed them.

But you gotta love those generic tightening specifications in the manual! I keep checking my torque wrench, but there is no setting for "Snug".

The only remark i will make on the brake job is that hte ends of the springs should be bent parallel to the spring rather than wide angled. They will be just fine the way they are. I wouldn't go back and change them. Just remeber it for next time.

Agree, it's the perfect location. The PS bracket also had the adjust for belt tension by pivoting the pump so that's a consideration.

Actually I did bend the ends of the springs closer together before I put the drums back on. I just took that picture before I did that. But a good suggestion by you for others that read this later.