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Need to replace my coil. The one we took out is a one piece unit attached to the ignition switch. As we don't have a key with this acquisition, it is no issue. But, I can't find reference to a Autolite 6v coil and hardwired ignition switch unit.
The manual does not show an image of the OE 6v coil or describe it's removal or installation. Is this unit still available? Or do I install a separate 6v coil and aftermarket ignition switch?

Here is an image of what I removed. Thanks in advance for any assistance.

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I believe that is the Autolite coil you are showing although I don't see the triangular bracket to mount to the opening on the firewall. Max Merritt or Kanter MIGHT have an exchange unit but the original style coils are very expensive. Flackmaster might also have one although he mostly specializes in the prewar models that also used the armored cables but had a different coil mounting. The ign switch and coil are separate so if you need a switch as well that will also be exchange and expensive. The Autolite coil base is held to the coil bottom by some bent over tabs. Straighten the tabs and pull the cup end off and you will see a threaded terminal the wire is connected to. The Delco coil bottom twists off and has a similar terminal arrangement.

Packard only used a total of 250 different keys over a period of decades so if there are other owners in your area you might be able to find a match in one of their keys which you can then get copied. The front doors and ign switch use the same key and a local locksmith might also be able to pick the lock and make a key. If none are available locally then you can send the switch and cable to Jesser'sjessersclassickeys.com/index.html They have a locksmith service that can make new keys.

If you are not too worried about the authenticity look, for a lot less you can also use a modern IC-7 universal 6v coil from Napa and buy a modern Pollak lock which will fit the dash opening and can use the original Packard bezel. That lock has a key start position which you will not need to use but it will also accept the Packard key if you have one made for the doors. You will need to modify and rekey the Pollak lock to match the key though.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... .php?post_id=196300#forumpost196300

Aside from the authenticity the other downside to that modern coil approach will be the need to cover the hole in the firewall and maybe use a universal bracket mounted to the plate to hold the coil. Another option might be to find an old style triangular aftermarket bracket which uses the original screw locations to mount the universal coil over the hole similar to the way the original coil mounted. Those brackets were popular in the early 50s and can sometimes be found on ebay.

Here is what the original Clipper Autolite firewall mounted coil looks like with the bottom off.

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Fantastic! It looked to be a one piece unit, which made no sense to me, so now I am comfortable trying to pry it apart. It was attached with a triangular bracket and I have many 6v coils and brackets in stock from my military vehicles of WWII restorations, most, if not al, are 6v, but negative ground, which should not affect the coil.
We'll try to get it started with new points and condenser and then decide which way to go long term.

Thank you so much for this.

Maybe find some good information here?

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... um=1&post_id=216383#forumpost216383

Wes

Great information. We have tested the coil after removing the shielded cable and, fortunately, it tests out OK. We will take the ignition switch and cable attached to a local locksmith to get a key made and/or the cylinder replaced. We will test the switch for resistance through the coil wire and, if everything checks out ok, keep the original set up, with new keys. Not worried about door locks or truck at this time.

Thanks for the information.

I used the bracket HH describes and a universal coil-ran a black colored wire from front of coil to the armored cable and taped it up

Just a short note. Old coils frequently test fine when cold, however they quit working when they become hot! This can cause multiple bad short four letter words! Ernie in Arizona

Just reinforcing Ernie's comment, coil test results are not 100% reliable; many an old coil has tested OK only to later prove to be otherwise. OK when cool and failing when hot is a classic symptom of a failing ignition coil.