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All very creative ways. I ended up doing it Howards way as that was the first one I read, and then I was off into the garage to give it a try. I just clamped a spare belt tight around the pulley, and wedged the other end of the belt with a pry bar between the frame and the block. Photo says it all, bolt torqued to 135 ft/lbs.

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Ooooh!!! Kev's been busy. Looking good!

Got the first coat of paint on the new waterpump and power-steering crank pulley. Let it cure for a few days and then do some touchups, then I can start to put everything back together to where I was before the pump leak was discovered.

Also went back to school tonight (and every Mon & Wed) as I am talking the advanced auto-body lab at the local college. So now I can start taking pieces into the shop there and start doing the rust removal, ding/dent removal and priming on the pieces that are off the car (front fenders, hood, trunk lid, etc). Hopefuly by the time the class ends in June I will be able to have the car driveable so I can take it in to work on the body shell itself.

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Updated on the Trico Washer pump.

Using the link provided by Howard I got in contact with McVey Cadillac (http://www.mcveys.com/), and ordered the deluxe rebuild kit which comes with a new lid. So I am going to try to get it a go myself.

Also upon talking to the guy he mentioned they had reproduction Packard plastic "crest" emblems. The guy I spoke to wasn't sure the what years the fit, put I am guessing it the hood and trunk emblems on the 53-56 models. He doesn't have them listed on the website. But he said they has sold lots of them. So if someone is interested in one of these, it may be worth a call to see what exactly they are and how much they cost. Also they carry the individual parts for the washer pumps if you need something.

Does someone have a link or picture of the correct tool used to "peen" over the type of rivets used on the washer pump?

Don't know the size in the repair kit or how they relate to the rivet sizes used in leatherwork but some of these tools might work. Check out the setters for rapid rivets and copper rivets. The washer kit one looks like it is tubular and about 1/16. Of course, when you get the kit you will write up one of your how to articles I hope.

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Howard thanks for the links on that, and yes I was planning on doing a How-To on the that. I figure the How-To's make great resources for the next guy.

I went ahead and finished touching up the paint on the waterpump, and put the fan pulley, fan and belt back on the car. I also marked the dampner and timing pointer with some white paint to make adjusting the timing easier later on.

I will wait to put the radiator back on until I can either repair or replace the trans-cooler.

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McVey's emblems were the subject of a heated discussion at the AACA Packard DF sometime ago. Someone was flaming them over pink tint in the plastic, but I'd purchased their repro 1953-55 trunk crest and had no complaint.

I've wanted to try the Trico pump kit, but just haven't had time. All you need to set the tube rivets is a punch with the proper shaped tip and something to back up the head. I have a tool set for removing and setting brake rivets that includes such a punch, but the Trico pump may use a smaller size.

Here's an image I Googled up:




The inside radius between the point and the edge is what makes the metal roll over. If you have access to a metalworking lathe, you might be able to make such a punch yourself. As long as the center point fits inside of the hollow of the rivet, it should work. The contours are not that critical; it's the depth of the hollow in the end of the rivet that controls its working range.

If you're worried about preserving the shape of the head of the rivet on the visible side, you'll need a buck that conforms to the head, yet stays clear of the material that you're fastening.

Brian, thanks for that info. Sorry for the delay in my response.


Update for today. I took the drivers fender to the Auto Body lab at the local college to do some work on it. I pulled the large dent out of the lower portion of the fender behind the wheel well. The look on all the kids faces was priceless when I pulled that huge fender out of the back of the truck. One of the older guys that works in the tool room came out and said "Oh it's a car fender. From a distance I thought it was a faring off some WWII bomber engine!".

I guess it was a compliment that everyone was surprised I managed to level out that dent, I looked much worse than it was I guess. My autobody instructor said he likes to work on old cars as the metal is so much more workable that the thin high carbon steel metal they use on newer cars.

I still need to do a little more hammer and dolly work on it and then it should be ready for skim coat of filler to even everything out. But before the filler goes on, I will take it to the media blaster and have then get all the rust out of the inside of the fender where I really can't get a D/A into.

No black paint on the alternator to make it fade into the motor area?