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Good to see the windshield lip is still there. John

Does it have to be a hardtop header?
A sedan would not work?

It would have to come from a 53 or 54?

John - yes, I'm glad it's not rotted out. I was a bit concerned about that, but the rust seemed to be limited to the header. The flange is solid, just surface rust. I'll clean all that up and POR-15 it.

Let the ride decide - Honestly I have no idea. I'm assuming the hardtop header is different than a sedan. I know the channels above the side windows are different. I assume the front header would be different as well, especially considering that the hardtop/convertible windshield is not interchangeable with a sedan.

I also don't know about the year. My assumption is that 51-54 hardtops all used the same basic body, but I could be wrong. What about the 55-56 hardtops....were those the same body/roof as the early 50's?

-Kevin

Found a local metalworking shop that does a huge amount of welding of all types of metals. Brought them the tank for them to look at. They'll get it repaired (either brazed or welded depending on what they find), and should cost $50-60. I'll pick it up next week and test it out.

I'll be pleased if it works!

-Kevin

Here is a convertible header.
No help to you.

The roof top is ok?
You want the inner support that has the sun visor and rear view mirror mounting area?

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Yeah, the convertible header is definitely different.

The roof has lots of pitting from condensation. I went over it with a stripper disc and got the majority of the surface rust off, but didn't try to get any of the pitting out. Should I use something like a flap disc to get that out, or just clean it up and hit it with a rust converter like POR-15? None of it is close to getting through.

The inner support that has the sun visor and rear view mirror mounting area is what I'm looking for. It goes all the way across the front of the roof. Tucson Packards just sent me a picture of one they have on a hardtop donor car. That may be my ticket right there. Waiting on more info and a price.

-Kevin

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I'll let the experts answer the details but it seems to me that it might need some sort of chemical etching before it's ready to coat. Maybe POR-15, which has a whole line of products, makes something for the purpose.

One thing to also check out is the front rain gutter to be sure it doesn't need any repair. If it does, this would be the time to do it.

I used a compound called OSPHO by Skyco to neutralize the surface rust on my car. Contains phosphoric acid and works good but need to follow the instructions for use! Turns iron oxide (rust) to iron phosphate which is inert.

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Thanks, I have some Ospho on order right now. I do have POR-15 along with their metal cleaner/degreaser and surface prep. I'm not sure if the POR-15 metal prep converts rust or not.

I'm sure I'll have several other places I can use Ospho. And, like was mentioned earlier in the thread, it can be sprayed, so it'll be good to use in a few tight areas.

-Kevin

I think you'll be happy with the outcome. If you search online for tips on how to use it you will come across some YouTube videos showing 3M Scotchbrite pads as a way to get back to shiny metal. It's in my regular rotation of restoring metal. Read the MSDS or at minimum the bottle. You are cognizant of your health... so do it outdoors, lots of fresh air. It has a strong odor. I would take the family out of the family project for this part if I were you. To my recollection the metal prep for POR 15 only gets rid of surface contamination / residue, but look it up yourself. I made the huge mistake of employing leather gloves when I did the inside of my doors on my Olds back in HS. My hands were stained black for at least one week. As a sixteen year-old it had some temporary effects on my dating... do not get POR 15 on your skin you will regret it.
Mike