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That's quite possible but I can't believe that one should expect a pump to have never been touched in all these years and make a kit that works only on those that haven't been. Mine does still have the AC diaphragms but they definitely don't disassemble without damage. If this one does screw together, I see no way to unscrew it as the shaft appears to be swaged in place permanently.

If you are still trying to remove the diaphragm, I notice the service manual writeup has you remove the pivot pin so the cam follow lever and spring can be removed before the diaphragm.

Thank you Howard. I've never ever had to remove the arm on this type of pump and I did manage to get it out last night. You simply tilt the diaphragm back to unhook it but there was a burr in on the hook and the original diaphragm was very stiff (I think it was an original!) keeping it from tilting enough to come out of the slot.

Relating to the comments made in this post after #3567 in relation to the proper oil filler tube, I discovered that I have three different types. The one in the center is what my Patrician had on it when I bought it over forty years ago and was recently changed to a straight one, such as that on the right (but with the proper cap).

However, it is apparently supposed to have the one on the left which tilts it toward, and nearly touching, the engine. According to the experts here, that was done after it was realized the cars with power steering had the pump blocking the airflow into the crankcase and having it tilted, the air was able to flow into it properly.

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I started working again on the Treadlevac long after it was disassembled and partially cleaned. There was an issue with the replacement reproduction master cylinder that had to be resolved which took considerable time but I finally got fixed so now it's ready to continue. Of course, the original cylinder could have been used but it's rough inside and had a tiny thin spot at the edge where the cover has to seal so I didn't want to risk it.

Since there was a bit of surface rust on the outside of the booster housing, I started treating it with a rust remover that seems to be doing the trick nicely. After honing the booster, though, there are a couple spots that won't come out. Should I be concerned or are they close enough to the edge to be away from the piston?

Another question, is the booster cover supposed to be painted black or was it zinc plated originally?

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Because of the width and compliance of the leather seal on the vacuum piston there is no need to be concerned about pitting in the can unless its extreme enough to abrade the seal. TVs were not painted at all when new, all was natural metal finish. I paint all of mine dull silver to cover the depradations of time and the lid of the reservoir and cap copper as they were originally copper flashed.

Don't know if this will of any help, just passing this along.
youtube.com/watch?v=LKbnYmPj9a8&t=8s
Wes

Ross, that's exactly what I was hoping someone would say that! Seeing those spots told me that something had to have been there to trap moisture so I wanted to be safe.

Wes, I don't typically watch how-to videos but that's one I did see some time ago. I've actually rebuilt Treadlevacs before and it's easy to do but the video makes it seem complicated and possibly even intimidating for someone doing it the first time! Maybe some editing and a proper voice-over would help. It was a good refresher, though.

Actually, the Treadlevac in the running Patrician would have been a better candidate to rebuild and would have been easier to do because it was a running and driving car with a rebuilt unit far more recently that the parts car was. However, I don't want to disassemble it more than necessarily just yet before getting it drivable again. Finishing up the brakes and fixing the stuck shifter are all that are keeping that from happening.

I know that to fix the stuck shifter I would need to take out the Treadlevac anyway but at the time I didn't know that would be necessary. However, no amount of soaking seems to help free it up.

That said, it might seem odd but I need to be able to drive it at least out of the shop and back in for that quarter of the shop to be insulated!

Made a little more headway by getting the Treadlevac's booster cylinder clean and just about ready to go! I am having a hard time believing that these were originally raw bare metal without rusting away but that's what several have said. I may give it a coat of gray brake caliper paint just for piece of mind as it's the closest I have to bare metal color.

The original casting, as I mentioned, was heavily corroded but the replacement of course, is not so I'll use it. I wish it had been made with the Bendix and Treadle vac (as the original had it) logos but I understand that patents and probably copyrights prohibited it.

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A little progress today in getting the piston assembly put together and installed. Tomorrow the booster should go together. I took this all apart long ago and had forgetter that I hadn't cleaned up the booster parts but did so today.

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