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Got the dash back in place and attached the hood release brackets and bolted the AC unit to the lower dash. The AC control panel with vertical slide switches fit snugly where the radio block-off plate is mounted. Just plain lucky with that! The center AC vent is mounted below the switches where the original heater controls were located. On the same panel as the AC vent, on the left is the switch for the 2-speed electric windshield wipers and on the right is a toggle switch to turn on the courtesy lights. The Autometer gauges were fitted to the original gauge bezels. On the right, a 4-gauge unit with temperature, voltage, fuel level and oil pressure replaced the non-working clock. On the left is an electronic speedometer replacing the broken original mechanical speedometer. The speedometer is driven by a GPS antenna mounted on the dash. The original Packard ignition switch is maintained but the starter is activated by a push button switch in the original switch cluster. Right and left turn signals and high beam indicators are added where the original gauges were located. Below that, are indicator lamps to show the operation of the electric fan, the electric fuel pump and the activation of the overdrive governor.

Need to re-test everything than the project can be finally wrapped up.

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Very nice again and the AC almost looks like it could have been factory. Even the modern instruments do not stand out. Are you going to have some kind or radio or are the dash wires going to be as visible from the back seat as they would appear in the photo? If so maybe some kind of grill screen or cloth behind the chrome would finish off the opening. Do you have the lighted label strip for the switches?

Howard,

The vertical AC control panel fitting in the dash was just pure luck, any bigger and it would not have fit!

I didn't notice the wires showing through the speaker grille until I took the picture! The dash has been hanging down until I competed the wiring and ducts, didn't see them. I'll stick a piece of grille material behind it. I'm going to use my cell phone with a Bluetooth speaker for a radio. I removed the lighted strip from above the switches. There are 4 operating switch positions in the original cluster: the power port (former cigar lighter), the headlight switch (pull to operate the GM switch), the starter button (push to start) and the fuel pump switch (pull to start). I'm going to have some ID tags made for them later. For now, if you look at the switches in the picture, there are 3 colored dots to help me identify what to use. Finding a USB adapter that would fit in the former cigar lighter was hard, very tight fit. I did find a single USB adapter that will work to power 12V accessories. Here's a picture of the USB adapter and the modified cigar lighter knob with the element replaced with a grommet to hold it in place when the port is not used.

Joe

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Beautiful work! Funny how things show up in photos that our eyes otherwise missed.

On the USB/lighter, a nice final touch would be to make one with the original knob that flips up or down to reveal the port. USB output is 5v as I recall but there is no fancy circuitry involved. Probably little more than a resistor.

I had to remove the steering wheel to be able to work on the dash re-wiring. When I took it apart, I put all the many parts in a plastic bag and put it aside. I've put this back together several times, but it never fails that I have to stare at all the parts to try to figure out how it goes back together. Might even have to check a diagram Howard sent me a long time ago! It came back to me and I got all the insulators and the disk on the horn wire in the right place and the horn ring assembled.


The biggest trick in re-assembly is getting the horn wire all the way down the steering shaft and out at the bottom of the steering box. Trying to push the wire down the shaft is like trying to push a snake up hill by the tail. The opening in the shaft narrows at the steering box and it seems no matter how hard you try, the horn wire will not go past that point. I've found that the easiest way to get the wire installed is to run something from the bottom up to and out of the steering wheel. I used a piece of safety wire, the stuff that is used to secure critical nuts and bolts from coming loose. It is very thin and very strong. It slides right up the column. Attached a piece of nylon cord to the wire and pulled the cord down the shaft. Attached the end of the horn wire to the cord and pulled the cord and wire down the shaft and out the steering box. There is no connector on the end of the horn wire, it was removed before disassembly. A new connector will be added to connect to the horn relay wire. The last 6 inches of the assembly gets tricky as the horn ring spring needs to be lined up with the horn ring and the steering wheel as the last part of the cable is pulled, easier with 2 people. The 3 screws then attach the ring plate to the steering wheel and the plastic cover is attached.


There needs to be something between the steering wheel and the plastic cover, I used a piece of 1 1/2" thick foam cut in a 3" circle. What Packard originally used had turned into a glob of goop!


Now need to install the interior windshield trim and the front seat and the car will be ready to drive.

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You have an interesting arrangement but as long as it works I guess all is well. On yours the copper or brass contact on the wire looks to be on the opposite side of the steel contact plate in your top photo. With the exception of the emblem attachment and mounting screws holding the horn assy to the wheel going in from top rather than bottom, I believe the rest of the 48-54 ring is essentially the same as the 47. On other cars the wire, insulator washer, plus soldered or crimped on copper contact stay in the shaft unless the wheel is going to be removed.

Some time back someone made the good suggestion of tying dental floss to the wire and pulling both thru the shaft then cutting the string and letting it stay in the shaft. That suggestion makes for an easy replacement as you just tie the string back on the wire and pull both down. With that arrangement, when going back together the steel contact plate portion of the horn ring assy is on top and the copper contact is above the insulating washer and sort of pressed to the bottom of the steel contact for the connection.

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Howard,

Because I have learned never to doubt you, I pulled it back apart to check the ground contacts. The diagram is not real clear. I swear that's how I assembled it before and I had a working horn!

Joe

Hi Joe, I was looking at the photos and wondering where you got the front carpet.
Looks like it fits as original. Thanks

Dallas,

The front section is one piece. I made a pattern and cut a crescent-shaped hole to go over the hump. Very similar to some of the factory carpets. Took some work to get the cutout just right.

Joe

If any help here are dimensions and a pattern BDeB posted some time back showing the slot needed for the hump in a 22-23 series carpet.packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... .php?post_id=145923#forumpost145923