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1937 "120" Coil Spring Removal
#1
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DJP-37-120
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I'm planning on removing the coil springs on my 37 "120" and complete some front end work. What is the proper sequence and suggestions of removing chassis parts to safely complete the removal of the coil springs? Currently the complete nose is off the car and the engine is removed so it's basically just the frame and front end. The shop manuals are not that clear on this. Thanks

Posted on: 2020/9/2 19:04
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Re: 1937 "120" Coil Spring Removal
#2
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tsherry
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Here's a link on the tear down and rebuild of my 115C front end that might be handy.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... um=1&post_id=218536#forumpost218536

There are PDF's of the RF tear down and rebuild.

Posted on: 2020/9/2 20:21
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Re: 1937 "120" Coil Spring Removal
#3
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HH56
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With the weight of the engine and front clip gone I would doubt the usual method of putting a jack under the lower A arm and raising it to hold or compress the spring while you disconnect the shock or upper A arm will work. With that much weight gone I expect the jack will just raise the front of the frame and do nothing to relieve spring tension on the A arms to take them apart.

If the entire front lifts you might need to chain the front end of the car to the floor or to a strong support the jack is also resting on so the frame cannot raise when the spring is compressed. Allow enough chain so you can raise the jack enough to compress the spring while you disconnect the A arm and then still have adequate clearance when the jack is let down so the spring can fully expand and be removed.

If there is enough room you might also be able to use a spring compressor to hold the tension while loosening or removing the A arm.

Posted on: 2020/9/2 20:40
Howard
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Re: 1937 "120" Coil Spring Removal
#4
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John
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I wonder if one could use a bottle jack on top the frame and a chain around under the lower control arm and compress the spring?

Posted on: 2020/9/2 21:33
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Re: 1937 "120" Coil Spring Removal
#5
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Ken_P
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There are some discussions of this in my project blog below. The book says to disconnect the brake line - I never have, just tying the spindle assembly plate to the frame has been enough.

Then, jack up wheel spindle, remove the outer shock bolt (connecting the arm of the shock to the spindle). Like HH says, that won't work without the engine in the car. I think your best bet may be renting a coil spring compressor, but they are tough to use since the upper coil bucket is so deep. Another option, if you have the stuff and equipment, is to put something heavy on the frame to take the place of the engine and front clip so you can use the normal jack method.

Good luck!

Posted on: 2020/9/3 7:18
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation. Project blog / Registry

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015 Project blog / Registry
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Re: 1937 "120" Coil Spring Removal
#6
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DJP-37-120
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Thanks for all the good feedback. I'm thinking now that it would be easier and safer to reinstall the engine, keep the front clip off and then remove the springs and complete the front end work. I also need to replace the bearings in the center link, I was thinking it would be easier with the engine out but sounds like it would be easiest to remove and reinstall the springs with the engine reinstalled. The engine is rebuilt and ready to go back in.

Posted on: 2020/9/3 10:14
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Re: 1937 "120" Coil Spring Removal
#7
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Ken_P
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That makes sense to me - I did the center link bearings with the engine and front clip in the car - it wasn't too bad at all.

Edit: Post #55 on my blog details when I did it on my 120. I think this link will take you there:

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... .php?post_id=176163#forumpost176163

Posted on: 2020/9/3 12:12
1937 120 1092 - Original survivor for driving and continued preservation. Project blog / Registry

1937 115 1082 - Total basket case, partial restoration, sold Hershey 2015 Project blog / Registry
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