Packard Forum Index » Project Blogs

Wes - thanks for the document. That didn't come up in my search, so I'm glad you provided it.

Ken - Thanks for the link. I read through it and am now wondering if maybe the heat riser valve is contributing to my rich condition. I'm sure it could be a bunch of other things as well, but this seems to fit what I'm seeing. Lots of carbon build up, sticking valves, etc. Not sure if my engine is overheating or not because my gauge is not working right. Also I'm not seeing any problems with fuel delivery, but I'm running ethanol free gas.

Joe - Thanks! The emblem is much improved, though not perfect. The gold isn't quite right compared to the original. But maybe $30 in materials and my time vs close to $400 for a reproduction was an easy decision to make. I had forgotten about the nail polish solution. Thanks for the reminder!

I'll see if I can get that spring hooked back up to the heat riser valve and check the operation. If all else fails I'll wire it open for now. Open is weight down, correct?

-Kevin

I did a double-take on the nicely panted nails! On lacquer, I'm surprised that it doesn't melt or at least craze the plastic! It must either be a tough plastic of else lacquer is less caustic than I remember.

In any event, excellent work and the emblem looks great. You could probably offer a service!

Kevin - I had a very, very rich running condition - clouds of black smoke, carbon dripping from the tailpipe, etc.

Fixing the heat riser fixed about 75% of the problem, and fixing a severely leaking exhaust manifold fixed the last 25%. My machinist took 0.030" out of it to get it flat, and I think the heavy leak was also heating up the intake and essentially acting as a hot box. I think that also led to the carbon I just cleaned out, although apparently those engines could build up carbon anyway (per the service letters). Good luck!

Hope the spring fixes it for you!

Don - the lacquer thinner left a slight hazing on the plastic. I figured it would, but other materials (like paint thinner) wasn't doing anything at all. I kept the lacquer thinner to a minimum by dampening a q-tip with it and cleaning off the old paint that way.

I've stripped plastic objects (models) in the past by leaving them in an isopropyl alcohol bath overnight. While it does get the paint off without melting the plastic, it does tend to leave a bit of a haze sometimes, and that wouldn't work with what I was trying to do.

What I should have done is made a mold of the front and back of the emblem, then made my own with acrylic to test out different techniques to paint and restore.

And thankfully I was wearing gloves for the painting. I masked the helmet with my thumb when shooting the red, hence the red thumb.

-Kevin

Just a little more information on the heat control. From Vol. 17 no. 09, 1 May 1943 Service Letter.
Wes

Attach file:

---

  (19.90 KB)


  (62.77 KB)

Thanks Wes. Another good piece of information.

I took the access panel off and got a good look at the heat riser situation. Turns out the spring is broken. It was separated right where attaches to the valve shaft. The broken piece is still stuck in the shaft, so I'll have to find a way to get that out. Looks like a new spring is on my order list.

The valve moves freely. I left it in the open position (weight down, right?) and then wired it in place for now. I have bigger fish to fry at the moment and will properly repair the valve and spring later.

Also on my list is to clean up the nasty engine bay. It's really an eyesore.

-Kevin

Attach file:

---

  (128.46 KB)


  (106.84 KB)


  (106.58 KB)

Kevin, if you need any more information this Service Counselor has a very detail of the Heater Controler.
packardinfo.com/xoops/html/downloads/SC/SC-VOL21NO3.pdf
Wes

While I'm waiting for paint to arrive I'm wanting to get the car running better. Since most of this is new to me I need a bit of guidance.

The car doesn't start very easily (have to give it some gas while starting....rough for a few seconds, then smooths out some). I really don't like doing that because it the engine is at a much higher RPM than idle when it starts. The idle is definitely not totally smooth. There is a really pronounced hesitation when I accelerate, sometimes causing it to die. The exhaust smells like a mixture of a 2-stroke engine (probably because of the MMO and Seafoam I added to the tank) and gas, so probably still rich. And it smokes because of the added oils. It's definitely not where it needs to be.

Where should I start? Here's a list of what I've seen and what I'm thinking:

1.) Fuel filter is original ceramic in the bowl. Probably clogged. Probably better to go paper filter?

2.) The distributor twists freely despite the set screw being tightened. I can tell that the fuel compensator plate (is that the right word) is the problem...It is able to slide up and down despite both the mounting bolts being tight. How do I remove the distributor? I haven't found any clear guidance on that in the manuals. I want to take it off and figure out what's going on with the fuel plate.

3.) After I get the distributor sorted out, what should I check next? Plugs are new, wires are new. Should I just get a new rotor and cap for fun?

4.) I'd also like to check the vacuum and adjust the idle mixture screws using that. From what I've read and watched I need to hook the gauge into the manifold vacuum. Where would I do that on this engine?

5.) I still haven't had luck with my fuel level gauge and temperature gauge. Neither work. Neither have their needles on "zero" either (see pic). New fuel tank sender and I ground the tank with a wire attached to it. Was I supposed to scrape off the paint on the new tank where the fuel sender mounts?

6.) How would I test the temperature gauge to see if the gauge is the problem? I read someone on here grounding one of the pins and it would peg the gauge, showing it worked. That was a different car, so not sure if it would work here? I'm very hesitant to run the engine if I don't know if I'm getting too hot.

7.) I ran it a bit last night and though the radiator was getting warm, I felt no water running through the upper hose. Level in the radiator looks okay, maybe a bit low. I'm assuming the thermostat doesn't allow water flow until temp is reached (180), but is it good preventative maintenance to replace the thermostat just because? Again, I have no idea what my engine temp is so I'm not even sure the thermostat works.


Sorry for the novel. Lots of things I'm trying to make sense of so I can keep the project rolling.

-Kevin

Attach file:

---

  (188.93 KB)

Kevin, lots to unpack here. I'll comment on one of your items, the fuel filter. These ceramic element filters will get plugged. Suggest just removing the ceramic element and see if this helps. Be careful with the gasket between the glass bowl and metal body. The element can sometimes be cleaned by blowing compressed air through it; however, a new one would be better. There was a party on a Chrysler website who was selling these filter assemblies. Check the Chrysler section in the AACA website. Enjoying your posts and admire your dedication to this project.

Kevin,

To remove the distributor, it should just be two bolts - the two that go through the plate. I like to put my engine on No. 1 TDC and take a picture of the rotor position before I pull it, so I don't accidentally re-install it 180 out.

After you get that sorted out, I would give it a full tuneup:

packardclub.org/tuneup/1954tuneup-8cyl-1a.JPG

Vacuum: should be 15-18" at idle and steady. Maybe slightly different for your engine. I have an old motors manual (i.e. Chiltons) from the 1940s that I got online. It has a whole section on diagnosing engine condition based on vacuum readings. Hook to any port on the manifold - does your car have a port on the intake manifold for the windshield wipers? It would be going down to the vacuum pump. I got my gauge from OTC via Amazon. I like it because it has a case; any parts store should have one.

Gauges I'll let someone else weigh in - maybe Howard (HH56)? As far as the thermostat, I would run a 170 degree thermostat.

Good luck!

Edit: Lots of good, simple info at packardclub.org when you click on tech info and tech tips.