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The fuel pump should have been one of the first things rebuilt, along with the carburetor, as the old ones cannot handle modern fuel whether ethanol or not. There is a number stamped on one edge of the pump flange showing which pump it is so that you know whether it belongs to your model or not and so that you can order the proper kit. Many look the same externally but have different innards so you'll probably have to pull it off and clean it a bit in order to see the number.

The vacuum lines from the pump booster actually connect by short rubber hoses (make sure it's for vacuum) to steel lines, one of which connects to the intake manifold and the other runs up to the wiper motor where another line connects it to the motor.

As for the shoulder screw, the purpose is to tighten against a surface (in this case, it's the block) while allowing whatever it is holding to be able to pivot or otherwise move. In this case, the wave washer keeps the distributor from moving too freely when the other bolt is loosened so it's important that the washer is intact.

With the car being in "running" condition, I had just assumed that these components were in working order. I'm learning a lot with this car!

I'm pulling the fuel pump tonight, then sending off to Kanter for an exchange. I don't know what kind of pump I have on there right now....AC or Carter. I'll pull it and clean it up, then order the right one. I just don't have the time to rebuild it myself at the moment, though I wouldn't mind the learning experience.

-Kevin

Brake hoses and cylinders (all five) rebuilds are first on the list if you're going to try to move it under its own power, then fuel system including pump, tank (which you fixed) and carburetor. It is only after all that that you start it up to see if it runs and I believe all this was stated in one of the first posts after your initial one. At the time time you were anxious (understandably so) to get it running so that you could drive it!

Don - you're right, all those things were mentioned and were in the back of my mind. The rust and windshield header took priority because if I couldn't fix that then there was no reason to push forward. I did the bare minimum to get the car able to move under its own power to and from my neighbor's shop.

Now that the header repair is done, I'm pivoting back to the mechanicals. I wasn't planning on a rebuild of the fuel pump, but was planning on doing the carb. I've also been planning on redoing all the brakes as well, just no reason to yet since the car can't be driven on the road at this point. I have enough brakes to stop, but I won't take it on the road until I know I can trust them, and that means all new components.

It's highly likely that I will pull off the fenders and clean up/redo everything in the engine bay this winter. Either that or do the interior (headliner, door panels, etc).

-Kevin

The fuel pump nearly always needs rebuilding as the diaphragms will either immediately tear with age or start to deteriorate. In a worse case scenario it can pump fuel into the engine! As for brakes, you should not even move an inch without rebuilding. Personally I would have saved the header for last.

Fuel pump removed last night after work. It was pretty straightforward. Looks like the rubber hose was replaced at some point and is still flexible, and appears in good condition. I don't love the hard angles on it though, as it might be restricting the flow of fuel. Might need to replace that. I'll for sure have to make a new gasket.

Cleaned off a bit of the pump and confirmed it's a Carter. Now I'm just waiting for Kanter to get back to me so I can order a rebuilt pump and send mine in for a core.

Tonight and tomorrow night I'm masking the car and prepping for painting the interior. A big box from Eastwood showed up with all the stuff I think I'll need. Hope to do that on Saturday if the weather cooperates.

-Kevin

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Did you confirm which Carter it is? I could tell by looking at it that it was Carter but the number stamped on it is what determines the model to be sure you're getting the proper one for your car.

On the hoses, unfortunately you can judge them simply by whether they are pliable or not and this is especially true of brake hoses. They may be pliable but still constricted inside when the inner walls deteriorate. That happened on our 1972 Mercedes 280 SEL 4.5 when I couldn't even blow 100 lbs of air through one of the hoses even though it looked and felt okay on the outside.

I didn't get the model number, but I haven't sent it off yet. The guy I talked to at Kanter yesterday said he just needed to know if it was Carter or AC, didn't say anything about the model number.

I'll probably replace the hose for good measure. I have some new fuel line laying around anyways. But I need to figure out the weird fittings that are on the hose currently. Never seen them before.

-Kevin

Replacement hoses are available specifically for these cars through the Packard parts dealers. If Kanter doesn't have them, I know that Dwight Heinmuller does although his are not too authentic.

Niagara Packards is an excellent source for the rubber fuel hose between the pump and the chassis line. They have been supplying these for decades.

niagarapackards.ca/market/