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Question in my mind would be if you are better off devoting the time to the original oil pump and assuming it is one of the few trouble free units that have managed to last this long without the intermittent clattering lifter issue or would you be better off doing the conversion to the Oldsmobile pump while you have everything apart.

Been reading a bit about the conversion, it's available still?

I was just planning on changing fluids before I tried to start the car for the first time in many years, then I hope to find a local shop to rebuild the motor later on

You folks have way more experience than I in these matters, would doing that replacement now really be the prudent thing to do?

Thank you

That should be a hex. Slips right in.

Jack vines has the Melling conversion.

Since your not that mechanical won't get into the Packard pump. How to modify it.

Thanks Riki, & Howard I will contact Jack

I did get the dowel back in place it seems secure,

Remember that if you put in the replacement pump you'll have to make accommodations for the wiper vacuum booster or install an electric wiper motor.

What accommodations would that be Don? The dual action fuel pump I have read about?

On another note , I crawled under to drain the transmission fluid from the torque converter. Turning the engine over by hand. It turned freely 5 or 6 times then suddenly stopped, meeting some resistance of some sort. I can turn it forward and backwards but can't go past a certain point. What should I be looking for here? Stuck valve? Cylinder damage?

Thank you

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Yes, dual action pump or electric wiper conversion. Either one would be obviously non-stock so I would go for the electric conversion myself.

The bad thing about the electric wiper conversion is there is no provision for the wiper co-ordinator if you have the WS washer or for the electric switch to neatly mount in the dash. The electric is also somewhat limited in speed and function as compared to the vacuum motor.

To use the original switch with cable setup and the co-ordinator you need to make some kind of adapter to replace the electric switch that comes with the motor with something the cable and co-ordinator can operate. Using the original dash hole with the new electric switch is no issue but using the bezel leaves an unsightly gap under the knob because of the sweep control lever on the original wiper switch. To cover the gap in the bezel the sweep lever needs to be cut and part of it replaced on the switch shaft to hide the gap. Once cut the lever is destroyed for farther use if you or a future owner wanted to go back to the original vacuum setup some day.

You can get the vacuum motor rebuilt for less than half the money the electric setup costs and the T Bird dual action fuel pump is not terribly expensive either. That pump will fit and work only requiring a bit of extra tubing to connect. I went the electric route with switch adapter to stay with the original switch and co-ordinator but in hindsight I do not think it was worth the effort and have seriously considered reinstalling the vacuum motor with a new fuel pump.

On the engine issue, Did you turn it over freely 6 revolutions and then it stopped or was it 6 times with only a few degrees each time until it reached a certain spot and stopped?

If it turned completely thru several revolutions then I would look for maybe some kind of liquid that filled a cylinder and has hydro blocked a piston but if only a few degrees each time before it stopped then it could be a piston or stuck valves.

I ran into stuck valves on a long sitting V8 which were so completely frozen several push rods were bent with my continued trying . For the hydro block you could remove the plugs and try again and if there is still a problem at a certain point then most likely valves and it would be good to quit the lower end and address the valve side.

The motor I recall seeing not too long ago used the original cable without modification and even had the pulsator for the washer, if so equipped. Not sure where I saw it, though!

Someone asked and I posted photos of the motor and this adapter I made not too long ago so maybe that is what you saw?

The stock Newport motor comes with only a standard 3 position off/lo/hi round bodied electric switch. There is an optional intermittent switch and a WS washer control switch that is available but the co-ordinator still could not be used without an adapter. IIRC, one of the early users of the Newport motor said he got the optional intermittent switch and it had a clearance issue with the space in the dash but I don't know what that issue was or if he got around it. Most have just used the switch that comes with the stock motor.

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