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Dads 56
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discovered why I cant get the valve cover off. this hose appears to be routed wrong when compared other photos of engine bays I have seen on this site. what would be the correct routing for it? should it go underneath or behind the heater box and come back up around? I have to remove it anyways to get the valve cover off. might as we position it correctly.

thanks.

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Posted on: 1/5 0:45
1956 Packard Executive 2 door hard top (5677A)
1956 Clipper Deluxe Touring Sedan (5622)(parts car)
1955 Clipper Deluxe (basket case soon to be scrapped)
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HH56
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The hose that is wrapped around the heater should be a molded piece that goes in a straight line from the hot water outlet on the back of the R head thru a space between the heater box and air duct tube next to the firewall and into the smaller curved tube on the valve. A straight length of ordinary hose then connects the other valve tube and with a gentle curve goes into the side heater tube. The front heater tube then connects to another length of hose to either go to an optional underseat heater or to the return port on the water manifold.

Here is a modern hose the late Randy Berger found at the parts stores that can be cut to fit and will duplicate the molded hose. Some drawings from the parts book and a service article show the routing.

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Posted on: 1/5 9:12
Howard
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Dad's 56
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Dads 56
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big help Howard, thank you so much!

Sean

wow. amazing, found something locally, finally!

Posted on: 1/5 11:28
1956 Packard Executive 2 door hard top (5677A)
1956 Clipper Deluxe Touring Sedan (5622)(parts car)
1955 Clipper Deluxe (basket case soon to be scrapped)
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Re: Dad
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Dads 56
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an update, then a few questions hopefully you folks can answer.

picked up a oil pan, better shape then mine but still needed a repair to stop it from leaking. will hold for now till I find another. pan was pretty rusty, mechanically cleaned it then had it cleaned up further by the radiator shop. keeping my fingers crossed.

discovered my trunk lock is broken. acquired some parts for the repair. has anyone switched out the wafers so the original key can be used? if you pop the littles wires out can they be replaced? I haven't discovered a post for that as yet.

prior to removing the oil pan had to remove the exhaust pipes. as all of you have warned the bolts broke so I had to drill them out, found a flexible drill extension that made that easier, still took a long time though.

while waiting for parts I ordered, decided to remove the driveshaft as I want to replace the dust boot. the service manual says to press out the pin, but I saw an earlier service counselor Vol 27. NO 7 in 1952 that shows you can slip the boot on without pressing out the pin. Has anyone tried this on a 1956 car?? Advice please?

and finally, on one of the parts cars found a ground strap laying inside the engine bay. is is period correct? It is about 19" long which from what I read is the correct length, any suggestions for how to clean it up? the baking soda and water trick from when I was a kid only did a "soso" job

anyone have any good phots showing the routing of the fuel line that goes from the pump up to the carburetor? saw lots for the dual carb engine bay, but not so much for the single carb, I need to make a new one.

thank you and good night!

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Posted on: 1/23 0:35
1956 Packard Executive 2 door hard top (5677A)
1956 Clipper Deluxe Touring Sedan (5622)(parts car)
1955 Clipper Deluxe (basket case soon to be scrapped)
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Re: Dad's 56
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PackardDon
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For 1956 Packards with 2-barrel or 4-barrel carburetors, Classic Tubes can make the steel line even though the pattern isn't listed on their site. They have both patterns so just be sure to state whether 2-barrel or 4-barrel and that it is 1956 as 1955s are different. This is presuming, of course, that you have the original type pump.

I have a photo somewhere of the new one that I just recently installed but haven't been able to locate it although if you have the proper one it will be pretty obvious as it can really go on only one way.

Posted on: 1/23 1:47
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Re: Dad
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HH56
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Do not remove the pin on the front U joint to change the boot. It is very hard to do and almost impossible to get it pressed back into position so the driveshaft will still be in balance. Here is an older thread with suggestions and the procedure to install a new boot over the pin.

On the trunk lock, as I recall the wire retaining the tabs is staked into the potmetal case. Removing the wire may destroy enough pot metal you could not restake the wire and securely retain the changed tabs and could damage or distort the case when trying. Alternately what several of us have done to rekey a cylinder is put the old key in the new cylinder and when it moves the tabs where they will want to go get a fine tooth file and use it on the protruding ends of the tabs to take them down flush with the case. When the key is removed they will spring back to their normal positions. While this may result in one or two tabs no longer being of much use, in practicality there is not much danger of someone trying to pick the lock and take advantage of the fewer lock points to get into the trunk. All it takes is one or two tabs protruding a slight amount when the key is out to keep the cylinder locked. Some new modern cylinders only have 3 tabs to start with instead of the 5 Packard (or Briggs and Stratton) used.

Posted on: 1/23 9:15
Howard
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Re: Dad's 56
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Dads 56
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Thanks for the suggestion PackardDon. The old tube was cut short, and I can’t find the other piece of it. I will look up classic tube

Thanks

Thanks Howard, will give the boot a go this way
For grease a #2 extreme pressure grease will suffice? Will do a search for trunk lock rekeying also, tips are good thanks again

Posted on: 1/23 9:44
1956 Packard Executive 2 door hard top (5677A)
1956 Clipper Deluxe Touring Sedan (5622)(parts car)
1955 Clipper Deluxe (basket case soon to be scrapped)
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Re: Dad's 56
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PackardDon
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Mine was cut too near the pump but at that time they did not have a pattern for 4-barrel so I sent them my cut one, then instructed them to make a new one using the lower portion of their 2-barrel tube for the missing portion, and the upper of mine as a pattern for the rest. It fit perfectly and they have saved the pattern for others who might need one! I also have a spare but it’s at my Oregon shop and I won’t be there until March, presuming I’ll be able to travel at all by then.

Posted on: 1/23 11:35
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Re: Dad's 56
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R H
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Buy silicone grease.

It will also protect the rubber once driving.

And is something to check once in awhile . and re grease. Outside.

Posted on: 1/23 13:55
Riki
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Re: Dad's 56
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PackardDon
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Never had a lock where a good locksmith couldn’t rebuild and re-key it as needed. Just be sure to use the trunk lock rather than the glove box lock as those in the glove box may have fewer tumblers. I don’t know if it applies to Packards or not but on my 1965 Imperial LeBaron, I had lost the trunk key so it seemed easy to remove the glove box lock and have it keyed. I did that but it needed more cuts to work in the trunk. It was about then that my father reminded me to push the button in the glove box to open the trunk. I had forgotten that it has an electric release!

Posted on: 1/23 14:03
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