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You can still get new u-joints for the junior models but the last I heard those for seniors were unavailable. It might be better to get a replacement driveshaft!

As Don said, the small joints are still available and maybe will be for awhile because other popular brands also used them. If you do decide on a new shaft though this company uses modern joints and has done several driveshafts for posters on this forum.

Look inside of bell. Where balls go. Look for wear.

thanks for the feedback guys!

Yes Riki the bell has some damage. Going to brave the cold today and pull the driveshaft off the parts car, only 4 bolts, -28 windchill

Shouldn’t be too bad🥶🥶

Hopefully that one is in better shape

I don't know if '51-'54 senior shafts are compatible with V8 models but if they are, I have several available at my shop in case you need one.

Thanks Don, will keep that in mind

Froze my nards off Sunday , pulling one off the parts car. Don’t know how I used to work outside in the winter. Sure don’t like it now
The drive shaft is in decent shape, I have repacked the front and rear joints and Will order a new rear universal joint later on

started taking the interior apart now. mainly because the rear passenger window would not roll down all the way. Made me curious. As there was some body damage on that side I thought it might be a damaged rail. what I found was what looks like part of a shovel handle wedged inside, 21" long.(a body repair tool for the time perhaps??) had to cut it out, the window works as it should now.

the passenger side lower A arm will need to be replaced, that will have to wait till the spring, (we have another cold snap coming on) so I can take the replacement off the parts car. If I read the parts book correctly, they should be the same. the shock was bent at 90 degrees, should have taken a photo of it before tossing it out.

new oil pump from Jack Vines is on the way. Maybe will get the car started soon after.

the lower grill is pretty beat up as was the bumper. anybody have any experience with repairing that? once straightened can the pcs be spot welded back on again?

thanks for your input!

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I don't think you will find a small enough spot welder or attachment that is reasonably priced and can also get into the confined spaces where the vertical pieces mount. Most consumer grade spot welders I have looked at also have a fairly high and fixed setting which might be too much for such a thin joint. If mine, I would straighten the mounting tabs and support structure and then investigate drilling holes where the spot welds were. You could then use small nuts, screws and washers to reattach the straightened stainless vertical pieces. Countersunk flat or maybe pan head screws might be needed so the heads are not too visible.

On the upper gold anodized screen, when I replaced mine some 35+ years ago the upper part was originally fastened to the vertical metal sections of the cast grill assy by peened over protrusions from the casting. I carefully ground the peened heads off leaving a flat surface even with the back of the screen and old washer that was under the peen. In the old pot metal casting protrusions that remained small holes were carefully drilled. The old washer was reused and some short sheet metal screws and washers added to hold things together.

The lower anodizing is also held by screws drilled into the support structure but looking at mine and having done it so many years ago I cannot remember if I reused something factory or whether the screws and small tabs holding the anodizing was home made.

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Thank you so much Howard for sharing your experiences on how to fix some of these things. I will give it a go.

Sean

As my oil pump is still sitting in someplace awaiting customs clearance, and the temperature was -35 Celsius this morning I went squirrely....and...watched some trim repair video's on YouTube. as I am still looking for 1 more trim pc. I decided to try to straighten it and make it passable? my friends son is rather a good carpenter and he made me a little jig to put the damaged pc. into. spent the better part of the day reshaping it, still have more work to do but its better than it was.

I'm also looking to replace the headlamp wiring harness, trying to reuse the sockets but that may not work out well. they are cracked, and a replacement rivet the correct size does not appear to be available locally. I filed down the head of a Teflon screw for now. you folks think it will work as a lasting fix? trim the nut flush, apply heat or glue to stop it from backing off?

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