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Carl, I have thought about it. Just haven't done it yet!

Well today is Wednesday. So that means I went to class again tonight (Every Mon and Wed).

I finished metal working the fender. Then dent is about 99% gone. It will only take a very thin skim coat of filler to level everything out. But first it's off to the media blaster to remove all the rust from the inside of the fender.

More updates to come.

Well I received the rebuild kit from MyVey's for the windshield washer. But I still need to buy the rivet setter for the 1/8" OD rivets that came with the kit.

Also here are some pictures of the body work I did on the front fender. The first shot shows what the car looked like when I brought here home. You can see the dent in the front fender behind the wheel well, and also the dent in the rear door. The last two photos show the front fender after I worked it with a hammer and dolly, and then went over it with a bulls-eye pics to level the smaller spots.

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Look for an inexpensive 1/8" Tubular Clincher Tool similar to the one like Brian posted. These look like the top of a sombrero, and the middle point does not extend past the sides. The cheapest one I have been able to find online is $35. It basically rolls the edges of the rivet around. There has got to be a cheaper one out there somewhere. This is where I wish I knew a machinist.

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Kev, maybe its time to start looking for an old metal-turning lathe. Great addition to a home shop.

I have a lathe but am not a machinist so learner type skills only. Would be willing to give it a try if you can't find cheaper and don't want it tomorrow. I have to order some rivets to try it out on though since the pictures don't have much detail and am unsure how much or deep the curve should be.

They are 1/8 rivets? Always thought they were smaller.

Howard, that is more than a kind offer. I took a rivet and used a drill-hole guide, and it fit perfectly in the 1/8 hole. So I figure that mean's the O/D is 1/8".

I was thinking of trying to modify the end of a flat drift, but I just don't have a lathe to cut the curved dish groove in the end that is required.

Well it's Monday, so that meant school tonight. The fender was basically done last week, so this time I unbolted the trunk lid with the kids help and shlepped that down to the college in the back of the truck.

There was a dent right in the middle of the lid right where the "hump" is. Because of the bracing on the back side I could not use the normal hammer and dolly, or a bulls-eye pick. So I used a stud welder (aka Uni-Spotter), to tack weld pins to the low spots. Then pulled on the pins with a t-handle while hammer down the ridges leveled everything pretty quickly. Only needed to use a few gentle taps with a slide-hammer to work out some of the deeper low spots. All done with that the truck lid. Both the fender and lid will go to the media blaster with the hood and the other fender for complete stripping inside and out. Then I will put them into primer, and finish the body work.

Also while I was there one of the younger guys in the class drove in his car to work on. A 1930 Durant coupe! All the body work is done, just needed to be painted, and the interior done. He is going to do both in the classes offered by the college. A snapped a pic from my cell-phone. Sorry for the fuzzy quality.

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I was able to pick up a Packard dealer service card for the original Packard dealer in my town. Unfortunately, the building is no more, just a municipal parking lot now. You have to love the price of an oil change back then $1.50!

Thanks to Mike Grimes for letting me know this was on eBay.

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Any idea what time frame the service is from? The $1.50 is nice, but for the work involved, more impressed with the other two.