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My 37 does the same thing. New wiring harness… 12v. New float. Tested the sender outside of the tank and the gauge works great moving it up and down by hand.

Gauge has a runtz on it to drop to 6v. When full it’s pegged…. As it goes down it bounces around…. And empty is beyond empty…. I just deal with it and get gas just about anytime I drive it.

I thought about an aftermarket 12v gauge. Idk…. Not a priority… just posting I have similar issues.

Dr. Moribus & Cli55er,
First off, I am pretty sure the smaller Junior tanks did not have baffles in them to begin with. If I'm wrong, someone will certainly jump in and correct me, but I think it was jus the big tanks for the senior cars that were baffled. AND, the sender unit I purchased from KM Lifestyles, has a very definite damper built in to the float arm, that, IMO, would counter 'slosh-readings', no problem. I believe the erratic gauge reporting is electrical and pretty much has to be either the sender unit or the gauge. I have run a new wire from tank to gauge and clarified a good ground, so there isn't a lot left. In as much as these systems run on ohms, I suspect there is some sort of incompatibility between the S.U. and the gauge. Just MY opinion, though. Chris.

If you get a breakthrough let me know and I will do the same. Messing with my engine heating up a bit too much right now so focused on that. All the usual things to check over to narrow it down. 100+ F outside so some things out of my control.

Hi Buster,

I am still checking out my gauge as the gas level goes down. I am at +/- 3/4 of a tank and still a nice, steady gauge. I will take it right down, close to empty and monitor the reporting. And yes, if I figure out anything substantive, I will definitely let you know. Sorry you're having over heating issues. Are you working with a 6 or an 8?? I had problems in that department when I first got my car and I think it was a combination of a lot of things. One thing I would check out, if you haven't, is your water pump. There was quite a bit of discussion on this in an earlier thread, and the bottom line was, with these pumps being as old as they are, and probably having multiple rebuilds, their tolerances have diminished from corrosion and wear, to the point that they are not pumping at their full rated capacity anymore. I bought a new, aftermarket pump for my car ($155) and, along with a re-cored rad, new t-stat, flushed block and cleaned distribution tube, can now stay cool, even when the temps get upwards of a 100. Good luck with your endeavours. Holler if you have any questions that my limited experience might allow me to answer. Chris.

Thanks Chris, I’m working on a 6. Timed it last week. It was retarded several degrees need to test drive it this weekend. Pump seems to be moving water, it gets water/heat to the heater core well, but I have a new pump on the shelf and that will be an upcoming inspection project. Also have a new 6 blade fan that has some more “scoop” to it to force some more air at low speeds. Piece at a time.