Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

During a short cruise this week in our 55 Custom Clipper, the rear end was low when we stated. When it adjusted, it went too high and would not come back down. Checked the in line fuse as well as the one in the fuse block and both appear fine. Installed n.o.s. spare brake light switch but did not help. tail lights work and turn signals work. may install another switch to make sure but what else?

The tail lights and turn signals are separately powered and switched items but the brake light switch is common to both your issues and is most likely at fault. In a 55 power for the brake lights come from the body feed fuse under the dash and goes to the brake switch. If the brakes are not being used the power from the fuse then goes out the brake switch, thru the torsion level on/off switch, and then on to the TL control switch to power that circuitry. As soon as you apply the brakes, the brake switch cuts off power to the TL switch so the TL cannot operate while brakes are on and instead sends that power to the turn signal switch. In the turn switch it is cut off from going to one side if that side is needed to flash and then sent on to rear bulb(s) for the brake light.

You can try another 3 terminal switch but the 3 terminal replacements or even NOS switches seem to be hit or miss. The conversion to an inexpensive and easily found 2 terminal switch with relay added for the TL switching seems to have solved the switch problem. Several of the vendors have premade assemblies that you can just install in place of the 3 terminal switch or you can make your own for a bit of time and the cost of a few inexpensive parts. You can also install a mechanical switch although that requires a bit more work because of mechanical fabrication needed for the bracket to mount a switch.

Here is an older thread with more info on the various switch conversion options as well as the circuitry thru the turn signal switch. .packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... 4055&post_id=232528#forumpost232528

Additionally, the levelizer control box may be on the fritz - failing to shut off until the external (undercar) limit switch kicked in. If you can figure out which solenoid to energize, you may be able to lower the car, but leave the cut-off switch under the dash in the OFF position.

Addition to my first post: After reading BH's reply and re-reading your original post where other than the post subject title you did not specifically mention no brake lights to go along with no TL, BH may also have a correct approach.

IF you do not have normal brake lights and no TL then look into the brake switch area. If the brake lights function normally but not TL I would start by using a meter or test light just to make sure 12v is getting out of the brake switch on the light green wire and go from there. If brake switch is providing power out then look to the under dash TL on/off switch or the control and limit switch portion as well as the solenoids all located under the car.

If the 20 amp inline fuse located near the starter motor going to the solenoids and compensator motor is good then first check the limit switch. It is possible something there got bent or jammed and the switch arm cannot spring return so the limit switch is staying open preventing the down movement. Also check to see if something allowed the compensator to drive too far and the bars actually started to switch sides. In that instance, the system is confused and will want to do opposite to what is needed. Usually it blows the inline fuse if that happens but not always. Referring to the birds eye view, figure 21 in the suspension section of SM, make sure the short transverse bar on the drivers side goes to the front of the compensator, the long bar on the passenger side to the rear. If all that is good then it could be a control switch or solenoid failure. Note that if a solenoid failed, they are a special type and the typical starter solenoids found in parts stores will not work.