Packard Forum Index » V-8 (1955-56)

I've got a slowly starting to dig into my '56 Patrician (newborn, house projects and a V8 swap all vying for my time) and I've got a few initial questions. The first is related to the back seat, specifically how to remove it. The trunk release unlocks and turns, but there is minimal resistance and the trunk will not budge. My plan b is to access the trunk from the interior, but I don't know how the seat back is attached and I'm concerned about damaging the upholstery if I start blindly fishing for fasteners.

My second question is the paint. The paint code is MC, for a Dover White and Eire Green two-tone. At some point the car received a (low quality) respray, and I'm not sure whether the green used matches the original hue. Although the actual application wasn't great, I can't find any jambs or other nooks and crannies that don't match, which makes me think they were either incredibly thorough in where they painted but not paint prep, or it's the correct shade. I'm having trouble finding pictures of Eire Green online to compare it to. Pictures of my car in different lighting are below.

Thanks!

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You will not be able to get into the trunk through the back seat as there is a steel X-member in the way.

As for taking out the seat, press back and lift off the lower cushion which may take considerable force rearward to unlatch it from the hooks in the floor.

Once the cushion is out, there are some tabs with screws at either side in the lower corners and probably a couple more behind the center armrest (you’ll have to lift aside the cloth covering the armrest pocket area to access them. Once those have all been removed, lift it up and out.

With the ornament turned all the way, try banging the trunk on the vertical part with the heel of your hand. Common problem on V-8's

James From
Kanter Auto Products

Thanks Don & James. The trunk beatings will continue until latch moral improves. Unfortunately the door seals aren't terribly effective, and the seller set the car outside beside their shop to advertise it. The rear doors and rear seat took the worst of it, I've gotten the car aired out but eventually I'll need to pull the rear seat to assess the condition under it, so I appreciate the removal tips.

If the suggestion to push down on the lid does not pop the latch it may be that the lever or link connecting the emblem you turn to the latch mechanism has broken or a clip holding the link has fallen off. Both have happened and many are familiar with the issue. If that is the case you will need to follow the other instructions on removing the seat cushion and back. Once those are out you will see the X brace and probably the back of the sheet of patterned cardboard that is the decorative trunk finish.

The cardboard will hopefully still be in good condition with no holes or splits but will most likely be very dry and brittle. It is held to the metal by a series of small metal fasteners which consist of a decorative head and two short barbed tangs which go thru the cardboard. The tangs grab in holes in the X brace and in the vertical metal across the top under the package shelf.

On the assumption the cardboard is still in good condition, to avoid damaging it be sure to take the time to properly squeeze the barbed ends of the fasteners together and push them thru the holes in the metal before just pushing on the cardboard.

Once the cardboard is off, providing nothing large is in the trunk that cannot be moved aside, it will be a matter of finding several long extensions for your ratchet and reaching in to remove the bolts holding the latch striker bar to the body.

It would be doubtful anyone would go to the extreme to paint inside the trunk if the car had a cheap paint job so you may also find your original paint color on the inside of the trunk lid or, if they did spray inside, under one of the lid hinges.

As HH56 describes above, getting into the trunk via the backseat is easily accomplished if there are no obstructions blocking access to the trunk latch. I enclose this picture (the upper one) in hopes it make this more apparent for you; just above the ACKA in the license plate frame you can see the latch bar, it is retained by a bolt at each end. These are the bolts you will removing by linking together enough socket wrench extensions to reach them via the back seat.

Wish I had a better picture, but hope this helps.

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One year, I drove a 56 Clipper Super to The Texas Packard Meet. I had the trunk full, so reaching the latch was not an option. My car was really a parts car, that I got running and driving. Anyway, I took out the backseat and unscrewed the trunk from the hinges.

There is a service bulletin or counselor on what could be your problem.

Success!

Thanks to everyone, pulling the rear seat and latch bar went just as expected. I took pictures as I went, at some point I'll upload them for any poor souls figuring this out in the future.

The external release isn't moving the latch at all, I'll investigate the linkage to see what's happening. So far I'm not finding any proof that this car was any color other than the current shade, which is strange considering how much darker it is than the color chips or other Eire cars I've found.

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Trunk latch repair is old territory, well-covered years back. Using the "search" function you should be able to find a thread from perhaps 10-15 years ago where several of us commented on various techniques to repair a broken trunk latch.

Being as mine is in garage went and took a few pics socket size is 7/16, Need about sixty inches of extension if seat back in same distance as convertible. I did use this method on my 57 when key lock became disconnected from latch good luck

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