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I'm having difficulty getting at the bolts that hold the water pump in place. It appears that the motor mount rubber bushing has compressed making it impossible to remove the bolts.

I remember reading somewhere that the motor needs to be lifted somehow to gain access.

Has anyone tried this method and how is it done?

Thanks to all.

You will need to raise the motor a small amount. Easiest way is to get a jack under the motor. Place it as far forward under the engine as you can so it is just behind the front crossmember. Use a short length of wood between the pan and jack to spread the lift force as much as possible over the width of the pan. It won't take more than maybe 1/8-1/4" to clear the bolt and you could also take the opportunity to change the mount rubber. If you can't wait for new mount rubber, then IF the old pieces are not hard, dry or completely deteriorated and melted to the metal supports you MIGHT be able to get a bit more life by rotating the pieces 180 so the relatively uncompressed former top sides are now on the bottom and supporting the weight.

Thanks, do I need to loosen the bolts on the yoke when I jack it up or leave them as is?

It wouldn't hurt to loosen the two bolts that are holding the mount plate to the engin front where the rubber has compressed by a turn or two to reduce the compression and let the engine break free if the rubber has stuck to the metal. You want the yoke to stay fastened to the crossmember so it does not raise with the engine and keep the pump bolts covered.

What you do need to check for is any side stabilizing brackets fastened to the crossmember or frame. I don't believe they are used on the smaller engines but the 356 uses them on some models at one or both sides of the engine. They are positioned just behind the yoke and should be disconnected. Those I have seen are sort of like later side mounts with vulcanized rubber connecting two pieces of metal together and have very limited flexibility.

Just try for a slight upward movement of the engine -- barely enough to clear the bolt head. The main mount will not allow more than the space in the support the rubber fills which is roughly 1/8 to 1/4". Trying for any more and you might deform the pan.

Tried jacking it up a bit and that worked, thanks. I did order some new engine mount pads from Steele. In order to replace them, do I place the jack under the oil pan to stabilize it and remove the 2 bolts or do I need to loosen the engine mount on the front?

Thanks again.
Geen

Duplicate the jack setup you have now to hold the engine up.

Remove the two bolts holding the compression plate to the front of the engine and remove the two bolts holding the yoke to the crossmember. The new mount rubber is two pieces but don't remember if both the same or if a rear and front piece.

Remove the compression plate and the yoke to remove the rear rubber half off the mount stub. You might be able to just tip the yoke forward instead of removing it because if the radiator is in it will be a tight space to work. Protect the radiator if needed so yoke doesn't fall forward and hit. If you want to clean anything then things need to get out of the way.

Install the new rear rubber part on the stub of the mounting plate or in the yoke opening and reposition the yoke over the stub. Add the second half of the rubber into the yoke then bolt the plate and yoke back on and lower the engine. It has been awhile since I did this and don't remember how snug the new rubber fits over or in the parts. If needed you could use some silicone spray or liquid dishwashing soap over the rubber to help assembly.

Yes, they’re the same front and rear, or at least they were in 1940. I never replaced them or anything else on my 1941 other than brakes and tires!