Packard Forum Index » Pre-War (1899-1942)

Hello. Help please. Here in UK my 1404 Club Sedan is undergoing recommissioning and progress so far is good: fluids changed, filter changed, front brake cables renewed, fuel gauge repaired, new tires fitted, steering box adjusted. My engineer is now trying to set the timing but there seem to be no timing marks in any of the expected places, no window on the bell housing, for example. The shop manual does not refer to this. We need to synchronise the two sets of points and time the engine correctly. Does anybody know the procedure to do this please? On another topic, I will need to have the right hand king pin assembly overhauled. Kanter have the pin but not the bearing. Other model years seem to have king pin overhaul kits but not the 14th series. Any suggestions? Many thanks.

Have you tried the "search" tool? I recall a discussion many years ago about reworking pins on 14th or perhaps earlier series to accomodate some modern bearing. I believe I also have some hardcopy that I'll look for and add here perhaps later if I can locate it.

No timing marks on the front vibration damper? My 11th Series Eight has ignition timing marks on both the front damper and the forward face of the flywheel (viewed by removing the starter motor). I use a Sun distributor machine to synchronize my dual points and then install on the motor and just time #1.

PS - your 36 was the last year for the old style beam axle front suspension, but I'm not sure if this applies to your vehicle or your problem. Regardless, in hopes that it's helpful here's the article I was trying to recall.

Attach file:

---

  King pin modification.jpg (56.97 KB)

Thank you very much. I will pass to my engineer and hope he can find a mark as you suggest. for the king pin he may end up finding a similar bearing here and adapting it.

The taper bearing set up works fine. We did that on Peter Schacke's V-12 back in the 1970's. Steering effort will be slightly higher.

Regarding the synchronization of the dual points, here's what I do.

The 1st picture is my distributor (std 8, 14 series).

The 2nd picture is a plate I made which fits snugly around the distributor housing and is marked at 5 degree increments.

The 3rd picture is an old rotor onto which I attached a paperclip which I bent to use as an indicator on the plate in picture 2.

The 4th picture is everything assembled and ready to test.

The procedure is as follows (and I summarized and adapted it from an article by Dave Czirr which I have also attached).

1. Remove the distributor from the engine as this is easier done on a bench

2. Place the incremented plate around the distributor.

--- If you don't have a plate and chances are you don't, I sell them so feel free to get in touch 618-304-0907 or whiteglove@mail.com ---

3. Place the rotor on the distributor making sure the paperclip moves smoothly on top of the incremented plate.

4. Block the points on the MOVABLE plate by placing a small piece of electrical tape between the contact surfaces.

5. Connect an Ohm meter to the STATIONARY points and rotate the rotor in the CORRECT direction until the points open.

6. Make a mark on the incremented plate.

7. Remove the tape from the points in step 4 and apply it to the STATIONARY points.

8. Connect the Ohm meter to the MOVABLE points and rotate in the CORRECT direction until the points open.

9. Make a mark on the incremented plate

The two marks should be 45 degrees apart for the points to be synchronized (360 degrees divided by 8 cylinders).

If the marks are not 45 degrees apart, adjust the MOVABLE plate to increase or decrease the angular distance where the points open.

Repeat as necessary until the 45 degree separation is achieved.

Attach file:

---

  20220802_212431.jpg (265.53 KB)


  20220802_212436.jpg (608.28 KB)


  20220802_212448.jpg (441.63 KB)


  20220802_212535.jpg (353.01 KB)


  Synchronizing Dual Points.jpg (424.43 KB)

Thank you Crin, your post only just now filtered into my inbox, hence my absence in replying. Your step by step guide is most useful.