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At least with most rubber washers, you can nearly fold them in half and bend them to make the I.D. larger than normal temporarily.

The I.D. on the hub shaft is 7/16", and the washer I.D. is 3/8". So I'd have to use a leather punch to open that up a little bit. The shaft depth is 11/32" and the O.D. of the hub is 5/8".

See this very crude picture:

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McMaster has almost the same item and does not have anything better so the Amazon item is less expensive and probably the best option.

With that depth and if the washers are a consistent 1/8 thick you could probably get two leather washers and something compressible on the stem. If the opening in the channel and the inside of the channel is wide enough for a 1" washer and the channel is thin enough you might even be able to work one washer inside so the channel is riding between two leather washers. Well greased, that should make a snug, smooth, and fairly quiet operation. Question would still be even if carefully cut, the 5/8 slot for the end would only leave 3/16 on each side and is that enough for the washer to hold together.

I'd have to open the washer up to 7/16 ID to go over the shaft. But I am hoping by bending it in half I can stretch in over the hub O.D.

I'll give it a whirl and see what happens. Thanks!

In other news, the junction blocks I want to use for the front-end wiring have arrived.

I am sure I will have the fenders and grille shell on and off this car multiple times. So this will make the process of disconnecting wiring far easier and is similar to the post-war models.

I'll mount these toward the bottom of the inner fender near where the headlight wiring passes through.

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I stripped the drivers door down to remove as much of the surface rust as I could. The first picture was the first pass with the stripping wheel.

I took three rounds to get in clean. Then it was blown clean with some compressed air, so which I discovered the amount of dirt in the door cavity to be surprising.

Then it got a wipe down in thinner and shot with some semi-gloss black. This is just to stabilize everything. Eventually, at some point in the future the car will come apart for real paint. But for now, I wanted to prevent further rust.

The car was indeed originally black. Who knows what the future may bring? I'm currently liking the Almond Leaf Green.

Also cleaned up the jam hardware and sprayed it with some cad paint. I'll replace it at some point with the correct chrome or stainless hardware.

I need to rinse and repeat for the other side now. Trying to get all of this done so that when those leather washers get here, I can get the windows back into the car.

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Also, in the door cavity, I found the remnants of one of the old leather washers.

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Should I soak these washers in something make them more pliable and to "lube" them?

I do

Gerry think has them.

Or mc master carr.

Or a leather washer maker.
But they are not the right stud diameter.
I found out.

Quote:
I think you should but will defer to those with better advised opinions or practical experience on what to soak the washers in. Some other forums have recommend pure silicone oil to pretreat and then to maintain the flexibility needed for leather piston seals. Granted this application isn't quite the same but I think it could be a possibility.

One grease Packard recommended on the sliding window mechanisms I cannot totally agree with. That is Lubriplate. Every time I have used that stuff it gets gummy first and seems to dry out and then get hard after a fairly short time. With todays greases there has got to be better.

If I were going to pretreat leather with a silicone oil I think I would also liberally coat the window channel and washers before assy using a modern silicone grease. There are several that claim to be non drying, long lasting, moisture resistant, and can withstand extreme hot and cold temperatures without losing their lubricating ability.

Thats pretty much what I do h.

I use my used silicone brake fluid.

I save it after I bleed the system..