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Thanks! I'll check for the full condition with the rods down. I secured all the lines already, nothing is open. Just circulating fluid is supposed to bleed the System.
I guess I will also double check that all joints of the top frame get some lube. I First spayed all joints with something to loosen them up, but long term should they be lubed with lubriplate?

This top hadn't moved in a couple of years. 5 maybe?
One of the Hydraulic rams was frozen, and as you can see, it is rusty and pitted.... the other ram I could at least push down after removing, and saw the mixture of gunk, trans fluid, and what might have been old brake fluid purge out. Yuck-o!

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Brake fluid was used originally but after thorough flushing I always use automatic transmission fluid which is also what Apple Hydraulics recommends. They should have the cylinders should yours need replacing.

I already bought the cylinders from hydro e lectric in Florida. I was surprised that they were not so expensive, but it might be a common part for many cars, and not just packards.

Aerated ATF looks just like homemade strawberry Jam!
The hydraulic cyls are bled and hooked up to the roof. On the weekend I should be able to try out the whole thing. However, I found one leak I need to repair. I guess this is on the pressure side of the pump. Hope I can just tighten it down. Now I need my fuel tank back from being rebopped.
Thanks for the advice on the fill process!

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The fitting on the rubber hose at the Firewall just needed to be tightened a little bit. Now the lower fitting on one hydraulic cyl is leaking, I hope that is as easy to fix also. I'll get to that soon....inch by inch...

And on the bright side it is ATF that leaked so a bit of soap will clean it off. Much better than finding a large blistered streak or a trail completely devoid of paint a leak with the original brake fluid leaves behind.

Thru the 50s and early 60s you could often tell when a car had hydraulic windows and a leak had developed. Paint on the rockers and bottom inch or so on the doors would blister or it would look like there were rusted spots. Usually it was just red primer showing but if it did rust it was due to bare metal where the paint had been completely stripped off by the leaking brake fluid coming out the rain holes in the door bottom and dripping or being blown onto the painted surface.

Yes, a pool of atf will keep rust away and is much better that brake fluid!
I found out that it was not the fitting leaking, but there is a rust/wear hole in the line itself from the transmission hump to the upper cylinder fitting.
I've ordered some 5/16 pipe, and will replace that line....

I put in the one new line with 5/16 cunifer pipe.
Cut, deburr, flare, bend, and it looks like things are sealed up now.
I cleaned things off with brake cleaner, but you can still see where some atf came out, guess that will prevent rust there.

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I had the paint stripping circus with a '52 Cadillac. Brake fluid in the power window system leaked and ran out the door drain holes. Took the black paint off leaving the red primer. That car had power windows and a power seat running off the hydro system, along with the power convertible top. The system worked great and never gave any further trouble.