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I wouldn't try to use that tank. It appears to be structurally unsound. You'd have to build another tank around it using fiberglass, which would look awful, fit poorly, and still shed rust into the fuel system. It's true that the static fluid pressure on the tank would be very low, however, in service, it has to resist flying gravel, vibration, pressure surges due to the motion of the car, and so forth. A leaking tank can cause a disaster in some situations. I'd find a better tank if a new one isn't an option.

I vote for new tank .As original last fifty years + new even if not made here should outlast most of us. New tank free the worry of dirt or leaks which gives peace of mind and no gas leaks a good safety measure also And the cardboard box tank comes in is nice to lay on when under car

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I agree Ac.

I see you added a ground..

I removed some the paint.on top of tank. And coated it with silicone grease.


Gauge works fine..

I put a scope into the fuel tank today. The photos that I took did not come out very well but the screen was clear enough for me to see all the pitting within.

I'll order a new tank in June. That means I'll have to put off buying tires until later.

I have a quart can of POR 15 fuel tank sealer on the shelf that I will never use. I bought it last summer.

I think you made the right call with a new tank. Otherwise you'll be chasing fuel issues forever. You can always get an inexpensive temporary set of tires to use until you're ready to get some nice whitewalls. I recall BigKev did that for a while until his car was mostly finished.

-Kevin

It took almost 3/4 gallon of Hirsch's tank sealer for my 1951 Henney-Packard tank due in part to it's poor condition but also it's a bit larger than a passenger car tank. It has holes all over it too but not gaping ones that yours has!

Does anyone know if you can still get one of the Yocum Packard tools (or similar)?

I have one in my shop someplace. I just can't find it so if I buy another one it's a guaranteed way to find the one I have lost.

This is the tool used to remove some of the bezels from the dash.

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If you have a lathe.

1/4 hex. Drill 1/8 hole maybe tad larger.

Done

The flats are actually 1/4 wide so you need 1/4 hex rather than 5/16.

Max Merritt has the ready made tools for $20 or if you have something else to buy from McMaster-Carr you can also buy a standoff with 10-32 threads that has 1/4" flats and is 1" long. Also buy a wooden file handle at the same time.

Drill the threads out of the standoff using a 3/16 drill bit and drill the handle as needed so the standoff can fit as well as have space for the switch shaft to bury inside the handle. Glue the standoff in the handle and have a decent tool for a relatively few $$.

Here is one I made from junk parts almost 40 years ago.

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Thanks h.

Couldn't remember. Went with 5/16.