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I can't find any paint code on my maroon 48 convertible. I'm afraid if a try to fix certain paint problems the paint may not match because of the metalic. I went thru this in a green Packard where the whole car had to be painted. I have a feeling my car is the first of the available options. It was built in the summer of 1947 and probably got to be Cavalier Maroon. Where can I buy this? Do I need a paint code other than E ??

1947 Cavalier Maroon Metallic E
1948 Cavalier Maroon Metallic E

1948 Grenadier Maroon Metallic P
1949 Grenadier Maroon Metallic P Dupont RS468

Original paint tints are no longer available, and who knows how much your exiting paint has faded. A good paint shop should be able to match and blend in any repair work.

I've seen the 22 & 23 paint charts either on TCP global/autocolor library or somewhere like that. Search the internet.
I might even have them copied, I'd have to look. Might even be on here in the paint reference tab? Who knows how close the chips are after this many years??? One used to be able to go to the "biggies" and look them up, but they clamped down on the archives about a decade ago. I tried to get access under my consultancy, but without a retail shop address they wouldn't grant.
Any time you're attempting to "match" existing old paint, it's an art. Do not pretend you can go to the parts store and get a qt/pt of the factory code color and expect it to match like a new paint might. You'll end up with a "zebra" or spotted gazelle. The gloss and other factors effect how it looks. They can shoot with the colorimeter and that might get close, but don't have much luck/confidence. Depends how much paint is left. AFter years of cleaing and waxing, erosion, its not as thick as factory.
The paint bases are different now and so are the pigments. Some of the solvents have been discontinued.
Best to do spray out panels and adjust pot til it's as close as one can get, but takes a mixing machine/computer. That's what a good shop will do. Make sure the old paint is flat and very clean and wipe off with precleaner. May also need a gun with solvent in it to blend the edges/pre-tack.
The trick is to not get too light or too dark than it is, as the eye can be deceived, but is attracted to defects. Best to cover whole panels or follow shadow lines than try to spot but I have successfully spotted - but mostly "new" paint, not the 70 year old vintages. Then you have to cut and buff the entire panels.
If this doesn't register you need to go see a paint shop.

I was planning to have the whole car done in its original maroon but where does one get such paint?

Several have bought paint from TCP Global I doubt you will be able to get the original color in the nitrocellulose lacquer Packard used but depending on your state regulations as to air quality and VOC emissions some modern formulations of old colors are available. There are a couple of maroons listed on the 49-51 Ditzler color chip in their vintage library. You would need to speak with them to find out if they could be matched in modern.

There is another library which has links to other paint mfgs, some of which will sell paint to non professionals.

I guess you threw me off with the description of the other car and didn't articulate a total re-spray. One can avert those spotting issues as discussed but really need to have some paint thickness to work with.
Whole car is best, but will take a bit of prep to get rid of all the old lacquer and may reveal some metal issues requiring repair before repaint. Then there's the rubber parts, etc may need replaced. You can sand and epoxy seal coat over, but not knowing the condition of the old paint leaves it to chance, so best to clean the slate. These old lacquers tend to crack and lose adhesion and spraying solvent won't help but necessary.
The best practice is to strip and prime coat with a non-etch epoxy primer, then you can pretty much put any type paint over it you want. Some places are offering lacquer, but the EPA kind stamped it out because of the solvent emissions.
For DIY without a spray booth/oven, I usually recommend acrylic enamel with hardener as it's the easiest to apply, quick drying, and gives good results in two coats without much pain/respiratory protection - cartridge is sufficient.
I like to shoot (acrylic) lacquer, but it has it's issues like lifting, blushing, and fish eyes and post cure buffing.
There was a specialty nitro lacquer manufacturer then the EPA shut them down, but I think they reappeared/offshored but lost track.
TCP would be a good start, I just got some weld primer from them, but any PPG or AXALTA dealer with access to the archive should be able to fix you up with something you'll be happy with. May require special mixing and spray outs so talk to a local body shop with a supplier sign so they have the mix equipment. The parts stores usually depend on who's working that day what paint you can get. I had a good paint guy but he retired and I'm not doing much painting to justify keeping current. I'll be painting some Cad repairs in the coming weeks.
ps: I was at the parts store buying my paint and I saw Duplicolor is offering lacquers. I think Eastwood adn maybe Hirsch does to, so may be able to find a close maroon met that you like ready made.