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1949 std eight shifter linkage issues
Cannot get shifter to go into reverse from 1st

Lube or lack thereof is an issue with the shift linkage, particularly the levers at the base of the steering column. The top lever has no provision for any kind of lube so condensed water and dirt can run down the tube and get behind the lever to corrode and rust it to the tube.

When the operator lever selects one of the levers to change a gear the other lever must be absolutely free so it does not try to turn as well. With both trying to turn at the same time the interlock mechanism in the transmission can block a desired gear from being selected.

First thing I would suggest is you disconnect the turnbuckle rods from the two levers at the base of the column and verify the levers are not dry and are very free to turn individually. With the rods disconnected, reach down and the lower R-1 lever should be free to turn. Have someone pull the operator lever back as if selecting R or 1 and the upper lever should then be free to turn on the tube.

If the car has overdrive, there is a mechanism in that unit which prevents reverse from being selected if over drive is engaged. If lube is not a problem, perhaps something is amiss in the OD and that will require more troubleshooting.

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Ok thanks, i found the lube hole, now, would it help if I put a generous amount of PB BLASTER in the hole to free up and get links to function and then follow up with some OO grease? Its fluid enough to move into the spaces but will be thick enough to stay a while.
Your thoughts? Got to get this bad boy HOME!!

It surely wouldn't hurt if that is where it is stuck but Howard's diagnostic steps might lead to something else so I would follow those first. On my 1954 Patrician's Ultramatic which has a similar mechanism, it was too stuck for that to help even after soaking it over and over for months so I finally had to disassemble it.

As Don said, it would be a good idea to make sure the lever is what is causing the problem. At least have someone carefully and slowly try to shift into reverse while you observe both levers. The lower lever is the one that will be selected and must turn to go into reverse but if the upper lever tries to turn as well that is a good indication of lube issues. If it remains stationary then need to look toward something else as the problem -- if the car has overdrive that is a good possibility and if that is not locked out via the knob do so and then try reverse again.

Putting oil in the hole will help the selector rod and lube the lower lever but will do nothing for the upper lever which is the one that gets the water and corrodes to usually cause problems. You might remove the half clip, slide the washer up and give the shaft a liberal dose of lube right at the top of the lever so it can run down and get in the space between the lever and tube.

So guys i need to get under the car and look at the very bottom linkage to see if its free and moving….. this is new to me so I guess pictures would help, there are no youtube vids i can find that captures this issue.

You guys have been a help! Any more sage advice will be highly regarded!!🧐😃

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With the Electromatic clutch components it is a bit congested and I am not sure what the item is under your Electromatic control valve positioned between the starter and distributor -- unless it is just something distorted by camera angle. It is a lean though with the battery taking up a fair amount of space but you should be able to view lever operation and even access the levers from the top.

Here is a photo of a 47 with Electromatic and the area of interest is circled in red. Except for the shape of the levers the shift tube and lever mechanism is all but identical to your car.

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Thanks Howard for your help,
I could see the two levers and the linkages although they were covered in grease and dirt. Completely filled the oil hole with PB BLAST and let stand about 30 minutes. Then kept moving the shift lever toward reverse then back to first, and so forth. Finally got it into reverse moving the car backwards then stopped. Shifted out of reverse then finally into 1st. Then back to reverse again. Then I tried moving it to second gear, slowly it went, then finally to third. Went riding an country roads, with a little down shifting involved.
Now able to move somewhat easier the more I drive. Mind you l wasn’t too aggressive with manipulating the shift leaver, but just kept patiently moving until it went were it was “in gear”. Also this was after the transmission case was topped off with about a quart of 85-140 gear oil. Will pressure wash the linkages with hot water to blast away the old decrepit grease. I will coat the linkage connections with waterproof grease, and fill oil hole with a lubricant called OO grease (used in the old Snapper lawn mower gear cases) by using a syringe and a small tube to fill it completely.
What can I say except thank you for your help.
You guys make this website work!👍🏻

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Treated the oil hole a couple of days ago with PB Blast, broke up the rust/corrosion, today I filled the oil hole with 30w motor oil, as much as it would hold and each time I shift it gets smoother and smoother.
Also theres a flip cap on the back bearing of the generator I dropped a few drops in that as well.
Oiled the cable that operates the slide on the vacuum wiper motor as well.

Update on my 23 series shift linkage issues, after a generous application of PB Blast, and a follow up with 30w motor oil, and gradual coaxing the shifter thru the gears, I’m pleased to say the shifter is running much smoother. Took it out for the first time tonight for about 15 miles and some 94 octane fuel, a little carb cleaner, adjustment of the choke, and fuel mixture it ran much better, but have a leaking exhaust manifold gasket, something bazaar in the front suspension, can’t quite describe, and a new set of valve seals, and down the road a carb kit and a rebuild of the fuel pump.
It cruized nicely at 60 mph.

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