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You can easily test the horn button by connecting the one side to a hot lead and the other side to the horn button wire. When you press the horn button it grounds, so the test light should turn on.

As I was testing wires today. Got a couple smaller items complete

Installed the door trim. Used the cup washers from BigKev. Thanks!

Also got the dash ends installed with the anti rattlers from Steelrubber

As mentioned. Going to move effort to the Gas tank and exhaust to see if I can her her started.

You got to be happy with that! She is looking great! Well done sir!
Bob J.

Could someone post pictures of their exhaust system. Specifically looking for how low I is and where it navigates with them c frame.

I have mine in as a dry fit but it looks very low.
Thanks!

Could someone post pictures of their exhaust system. Specifically looking for how low I is and where it navigates with them c frame.

I have mine in as a dry fit but it looks very low.
Thanks!

There are some pictures in the brochures in the Literature Archive showing views of the 110 and 120 complete chassis with no body installed. Most of the exhaust systems are visible. Look for the 1937 material.

Thanks both. Yes it is below the frame but looks to be the norm. My grandmother had it replaced and her guys tucked it up in the frame. So when I took it out I was expecting something similar.



Thanks!

Today I dry fit the exhaust. Thanks the Txgoat and Bob for guidance. Will get tank on later this week.

Was also able to add the insulation to the firewall. Got about 99% coverage. Left the screws available for toe board. Just have a feeling I am going to need to get behind there again at some point. I did not cover the cables either. Was able to get most of the holes and other gaps covered.






Also I realized I removed the grommet for my steering column. In order to replace I assume the required removing the steering wheel?

My exhaust runs through the frame, but you can still see some of the (round) mufflers below it. The tailpipe runs under the gas tank and is about 3" below the rear body valance panel. It's a trick not to get the pipes too close to the frame, since they will move some with the engine. The exhaust system on my car is almost certainly not original, but it must be made very close to original or it would not fit at all. It looks like a semi-stainless material with factory-style bends. There is a steel bracket along about the clutch housing that is rigid, and the other hangers are rubberized. The X member in the frame has oval shaped holes that the pipe passes through. It's a tight fit, and alignment is critical.

Ok. So my pipes do not pass through the frame. The old one did but the one from Waldrons is pretty much below the frame from the manifold to the resonator. Then the tail pipe loops up and over the axel and then under the gas tank. The literature did not look like it was through the frame. That why I was hoping for some pictures for reference.