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Ok, fixed

Now that the weather is decent I'm going to try to blitz through putting the trim back on my car. Is there anything special with how the "Reynolds wrap" is held on in the doors?

In other words how 3.30077 is held on by 2x 3.30075. The parts book calls out 5 standard trim clips and 2 nut retainers per 3.30075.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/parts ... 1&PlateNumber=6&partslist=1955-1956

Except for the front fender pieces and I think the little piece next to the side light the stainless "Reynolds wrap" is mostly held by being sort of clamped between the body and the upper and lower side strips. The strips use a combination of spring and stud/nut clips to hold them on. In addition to the side strips, The Four Hundred script helps hold one front fender piece in position and parking light the other. Been lots of years since I had one apart but seem to recall some small notches on each edge of the door piece where the clips which hold the side strips are located. The notches help keep it from sliding. The parts items you mention may be what is holding the small piece next to the light.

Thanks Howard. Actually yeah that little piece by the light I was not as sure about either. Says it's held in with 2 screws but I don't remember if the screw into the body or screw into the "comb".

P.S. I searched out of curiosity and "thanks Howard" returns 598 exact results

Got the first piece(s) of trim back on in a while. I’m not sure yet on the “no black lines” look. It won’t be the end of the world to draw them on if I change my mind.
Definitely plan to keep the whitewalls though

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Of the cars I've seen, I tend to prefer the black lines on the side trim. It seems to look more finished. How would you go about adding them? Paint pen, marker?

Fourney paint pen is the way to go. It's about the right size.

Likewise for redoing the hubcaps. Mask off a hexagon and spray with red spray paint. Then color in the circular depression with a marker to do the black.

By the way Kevin, here's how that looks. Repainted vs (dirty) good used.

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We all know Ross's advice is gold but this time literally. I redid the scripts on my car. The steps are:
- clean with a wire wheel
- clean what you missed, with steel wool (doesn't have to be perfect but just get the rough corrosion off)
- clean with brake cleaner and a rag
- apply Duplicolor Gold automotive rattle can paint. Sweep the can back and forth to apply several very light passes in one go. Repeat from all 4 directions.

It's not a concours level look but it's very nice overall and the paint is surprisingly durable. Best part is a whole car costs just a $13 can. Whereas replated scripts from vendors are nearly a cool $100 each. The replated ones do have a mirror shine but unless your local car cruise has a pile of Packards it's not like anyone will be able to tell or care. (Photo attached for reference.)

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Clear coat them.


Looks good.


I plan on using gold leaf from. Hobby store. Not a paint.