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Last week, after work, I was running the Packard allowing it to warm up and come off choke, to attempt to adjust the carb better than it is currently. My friend who happens to also be my mailman, stopped briefly because he saw the hood up. He immediately commented that my starter was still engaged. I thought maybe I crossed a wire while re-wiring but to no avail. I swear I could not hear a difference in it idling; but he swore it was “plain as day.” I trust my mailman, so I turned off the car for an evening with more daylight. Today was the day, 62 degrees out. Thinking all kinds of possible scenarios, I had not considered the return spring for the starter. It took awhile but I was able to properly seat the spring.

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I was getting a clang.

Took trans apert only to find. That damn. Return spring popped out.

Make sure..

It's well seated in that lever.. if not.. it will pop out.

Just an Update:
Installed a set of digital gauges and a radio in a custom fabricated metal insert in the glove box opening. The original glove box is safely packed away. My constant thought with this car, is that nothing modern installed that cannot be undone and preferably not visible. When at a show or an event, I close the glove box, and no one knows. The gauges came from Amazon and in the photo, you will note with the engine off, my rpm is 7,685 and 150psi oil pressure. After reading the reviews about the gauges I realized that I got what I paid for. Since then, I have ordered new gauges from Summit Racing. But a whole new set of issues. The new gauge requires a different oil pressure sending unit. My first thought was a T pipe so both units can be installed. The original for the dash, and the new unit for the digital gauge. So today, after many trips to the tool box and frustration, I walked away. It seems nearly impossible to get the old sending unit out. I am sure this is a breeze if the engine was out of the car, but in the car, it is a nightmare. Is there another port on the engine that I can install the new sending unit. Oh yeah with regards to the vacuum pressure on the carb. Bad vacuum gauge adjustment on the tool. My mailman pointed that out to me. It now reads in the green. Power steering rack leaks bad, so repairing that is next. Where do I find new hoses for the power steering? Also, where can I find or have repaired the side mirror. It is brownish and wobbles. Also noted a small chip in the windshield from a rock from the neighbor's mower. Not happy about that. All in all, though, I really feel that I can at least double my distance behind the wheel this summer. So far, I have driven her 75' and pushed her back 100'

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For the extra sender, I seem to recall a plug just below the regular sender and at an angle pointing toward the passenger side. It may be slightly hidden under the breather vent tube coming off the lifter galley cover. I believe it is larger than the sender port -- maybe a 1/4 plug -- but think it also opens to the same passage the sender uses.

Another option is since the heads are interchangeable right to left there will be an unused port on the rear of both heads. Look to see where the oil filter supply tube is at the front of the left head to see where it will be positioned at the rear. Not sure you will be able to use those because of the closeness to the firewall if the sender is very large.

As to the hoses, I believe the vendors have them but you might also be able to have them made locally at a hydraulic shop. If replacement fittings are much larger or different in shape than the originals there could be issues with the two short hoses on a Bendix system. There is also a restriction in the main pressure hose that factory articles said is supposed to cut down on noise. I know hoses made locally don't have that restriction and seem to work OK so don't know how important it really is.

Jacked the car up and was not happy with the clearance on ramps so I built a 4” platform for the ramps. (wish I had a garage) now plenty of crawling around room.

I removed the control valve and rack for the power steering. Also took a hard look at very sad bushings on the suspension and sway bar. Found a source for the lower A frame bushings. Not very happy with the rubber boots on the tie rod ends or for that fact any of the boots. Any suggestions on where to get those plus I need a bushing for the rod coming from the rack. Also, a huge question I have is: which type of power steering is this (know there are 2 types) and the best source of a rebuild kit? Only 1 hose has any damage, and it appears to be a unique hose. Any suggestions on a replacement?

Saw what appears to be a piece of rebar on the sway bar. I assume this is not factory.

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Dwight Heinmuller has complete bushing sets for Torsion-Level Packards and also offers a nice reproduction of the factory front suspension tool. You would probably need to enlist a shop to install it all, though.

The rebar definitely is aftermarket but are you sure it's on the sway bar? It looks a lot like a torsion bar in the photo but in either case you'll have to get a replacement.

Bendix power steering.

The lower A arm.

Make a tool to hold the A arm ends

They are a pain to get off.

Waiting to hear back from Moose Motors about the power steering unit. Experimented a little with the rear seat. Brought out the steam cleaner; using it, mild cleaner, stiff brush, and a vacuum I cleaned half of the seat to see if it could come back to life. I am pleased with the results. The camera fails to capture the gold thread that runs throughout the fabric. It really catches the eye in the light. The only issue with the seats is the fabric that is not normally seen. It is a lesser grade fabric and has not survived the years well. Also, the fabric on the top edge of both front and rear have UV damage. Lighter color (faded). Was considering a blue dye.

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Yes, the gold inlay fabric wears easily. Oh well...

Waiting on steering parts. So, I am inside the car and way out of my comfort zone or knowledge. I know there are two heater boxes under the front seat, and it is a powered seat (that doesn’t work). Would like to pull it out so I can lay down a few moving blankets while I treat the rusty roof and apply sound deadening. The manual shows the bolt location and the connector; but it also says, “remove cushion.” Does it just lift up or are there clips? Can the back part of the front seat be removed prior to removing the seat from the car? It looks heavy as a whole seat, and it is just me. Any suggestions or tips for resurrecting the power seat. Also, the chrome strips on my door panels have basically fallen off. The bendable tabs that protrude through the fabric and panel are basically rusted away. The chrome looks great just no tabs. Appears as though these were on a strip that was pinched by the outer chrome. Right now, I am contemplating using JB weld to attach some soft metal to the backside of the chrome.