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Update,
Just ordered the ABS Power Brake conversion kit. Will take a week or so to build and then it will ship out. Went with the optional black master cylinder. I will post pictures and my thoughts of it when I receive it. Then again after I install it. Won't till spring when I install it. I need to also order the front disc brake kit. I decided to go with the Wilwood disc kit.



Thanks,
Earl

I know it is early but when you start the conversion, before taking your car apart would you measure from the flat floor up to the bottom of the original pedal and maybe take before and after photos just for a way to compare how the new but shorter suspended pedal is located in position to the original. The pedal pad position was one of the items Packard stressed in their ease of operation ads and it would be nice if the positions are reasonably close to the same. When Craig did the first conversion to a modern booster the way he modified his pedal (which in the final version looked a bit like the ABS pedal) moved the foot pad quite a distance downward. Others who followed his mod said the new location works but takes getting used to. The stock location has the pad just slightly lower than the hole in the floor plate but the ABS location looks much lower.

Am also curious about the actual diameter of the new booster and length of the overall assy as to how it compares with the Treadlevac. Space between the firewall and floorplate to steering box is very limited. Unless the photos are deceiving, the black booster ABS shows on their unit looks like a different brand and smaller in diameter but longer in length than the 7" single or dual universal boosters Craig and most of the vent conversions used. It would be nice to know what ABS came up with and if they moved everything up a bit or how they positioned things to get clearance to the steering box. From what I can see the hole in the ABS plate looks roughly to be in about the same place as the stock plate. Am wondering if remaking and relocating the pedal and maybe not tilting the booster downward as much is the difference allowing their modern booster setup to work in the original space.

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I do plan to take measurements of the original pedal from different locations. I plan to take the ABS plate and put it over the floor to see where their pedal location is and in relation to the OE pedal. That's my only concern, where the ABS pedal location will be. If I don't like the pedal location, I will send it back. If the location is doable, then I will proceed.

The picture definitely shows a dual booster. They are advertising it as 8" dual. I will measure when I get it. I will also measure the overall length. I plan to take pics of the two side by side and installed.

I plan to share all with the group. This could be an excellent item for the odd ball Packard setup. Also it is a direct bolt in vs installing a hanging pedal and not giving up your crotch vent. The car could easily be returned to stock.


Thanks,
Earl

I started my own thread on this conversion. I received the kit.

packardinfo.com/xoops/html/modules/newbb ... 7861&post_id=267281#forumpost267281


Thanks,
Earl

Has anyone tried to take a dual master, such as from a Chevy, and stick it on the Packard TV?

classicindustries.com/product/all-years/chevrolet/belair/parts/PB10719.html

Quote:
Seems like there is an old discussion on the forum but don't think it has been tried. Think the consensus was you would not gain anything because the BTV works on the fact a large long stroke ram moves into a confined space and displaces or squeezes fluid out principle while modern masters work by having a fairly large piston pushing a volume of fluid ahead of it. The advantage of the fluid being forcibly displaced is lost so the BTV mod would be essentially an older booster instead of a modern booster. It would still need to move to get a decent pedal ratio to work the piston. That Chevy BTV replacement works as a direct swap for Chevy's because they mounted their BTV near the top of the firewall and had a high pedal ratio from the start.

To make a mod work a plate needs to be made to attach to the end of the BTV canister. It needs to generally follow what is in the mounting end of hydraulic portion of the BTV so it can be a rod guide, a rod support, and have seals so the vacuum can be confined in the canister portion. Whatever is used for a new rod must be smooth enough for a seal, substantial enough to be supported in the new plate and kept from tilting because the BTV ram end fits in a socket on the power piston and is the only thing that supports and keeps the power piston straight in the canister so it can move.

You might be able to make a thick plate that has a bore to provide the rod guide and seals for the vacuum. Also needs to be thick enough to have threaded holes so the new master can bolt to it. One end of the new rod must fit the power piston and the other end be narrow enough to be able to seat in the new master piston with its smaller diameter pocket sized for a modern push rod. Possibly the old ram could be machined to work but it is probably hardened. I think it was decided it was much work for zero gain.

Also, the TV unit sits at a steep angle and the original master is cast in such a way as to mount at an angle but to have a level reservoir. It would be great if a proper one with top plate could be made but I expect it will never happed due to the hight cost and limited market. That said, I have never had a properly sorted system fail.