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I have been struggling with getting the spring, back onto the power seat frame.
It is a very strong spring.

I finally devised a way to stretch the spring using a metal support pole, a piece-of-chain, and some all-thread.

I just tightened the nut and let it pull the spring into place.

I make it sound easy but I was terrified that something was going to let go and rip my face off.
I had a spare tire between me and the seat frame.

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I would have been tightening that bolt like this 😂

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Stewart, would you confirm some details on the motors you chose for your windows. A photo in your blog, post #1322 shows Dorman 742-446 and 447 with the small pinions which I'd like to use with your coupling idea on another project. Amazon has the 446 listed at 12v but the 447 listed as 28v which seems odd for a matched or mirror image pair. It also has the RPM for the 447 at 100 which would be a bit fast for the project. Are they actually a 12v matched pair with hopefully a more reasonable speed?

Yes, those are the correct motors.
I even checked my Amazon account to confirm that is what I purchased and I saw the same info that you did.
I am sure the info was typed in wrong.
Someone probably just reused a template for multiple motors.

The Dorman site or even ebay may have the correct info.

Stewart

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Thanks for checking. I'm wavering now between those and another pair I found with only a square stub instead of a gear.

I was working on installing the door handles recently and polishing up the stainless trim along the top of the door. I noticed that the clips for the stainless that I have and the original clips were significantly different. I may not be able to make these work.
As they are now the new clips will touch the glass. If I cut them down I may not be able to get them into the holes. I'll figure it out, it is just another hic-up.

Does anyone have any tips on polishing the flat areas of the grill?
The fronts of the grill polish up great but the flay areas are a pain. I have about 3 hours on them now and very little progress. I have been using an assortment of steelwool grits and the flat areas are just not getting much better.

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I had the same issue on the replacement clips I got from Restoration Specialties. They were too long and contacted the rear quarter glass. I ended up cutting off a few millimeters with a Dremel. I was still able to get them in the holes. You don't need to cut them to the same length as the originals.

I trimmed off the ends of those trim clips and installed the door stainless trim and the handles this week. I hope it is all good because that long piece that locked the door handles on is not coming back out again. Not in one piece anyway.

After 10 years of collecting dust I pulled the rear bumper out of storage and put it on some saw horses today. It is rough but it will have to do for now. There is no way I can budget for that kind of repair at this time. The worst parts appear to be on the bottom so hoping the upper parts polish up enough that only a few people notice the underside.

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Yeah that should polish up well.

Wonder what that bumper would look like in two tone until the time came when you could afford to shell out half the national debt. If the top would polish out decently and you fixed and filled to smooth the rust and then masked down the middle or just below middle and did something like a Spectra Chrome or Future Chrome spray process on the bottom portion it might not look terribly bad. Even doing the lower portion in something darker to complement a body color might look decent.

From the photos, either process might be tolerable on the entire bumper. Of course it wouldn't match any other nearby chrome so that might be a non starter. SpectraChrome looks like it wants to go thru dealers but there might be something at a nearby body shop. They do have a very inexpensive training class though and it sounds like they take DIYers. Future Chrome offers a DIY kit on their website.

No idea on durability but if anyone has used the process it would be interesting to hear the comments. Of course, there is also the standby rattle can silver paint that would look better than a big blob of rust.